If Kuta’s your idea of hell and Ubud is still too busy for you, then head out to the tranquil beauty that is Sidemen. This small village in the heart of rural East Bali, set among the beautiful rice fields, is still largely off the main tourist trail and it’s all the better for it. We first visited years ago on a day trip from Ubud and vowed to come back and stay. Having now done so, we can say that the true beauty of Sidemen is around taking the time to explore and soak up its rural charm, and you just don’t get that time on a day trip. If you can, treat yourself to at least a couple of nights.
The most striking aspect of Sidemen is the giant that appears from behind the clouds every now and again: Mount Agung. This huge volcano looms over the local villages and there are many incredible vantage points you can take it in from.
We’ll cover all the best spots in this guide, along with loads of other great things to do in and around Sidemen.
Things to do in Sidemen
1. Relax in a waterfall infinity pool
The plunge pool at the pretty Gembleng Falls might be tiny, but the setting and view is spectacular.
You’ll be perched on top of a waterfall high above the jungle, yet it takes less than 10 minutes to walk to! It’s all uphill, but on well maintained staircases.
The only tricky bit is actually getting into the pool, where the rocks are a little slippery. However, there are several other little pools which are very easy to access if you don’t like the look of the main one. It’s such a beautiful spot and really feels like you’ve found your own little piece of paradise.
All the details on the pools and walk to get there, as well as the access road are in this guide.
Distance from Sidemen Village: 9km (17 mins)
2. Marvel at one of the most iconic scenes in Bali
The view from Pura Lempuyang is out of this world. The stunning “gates of heaven” perfectly frame the looming Mount Agung in what is one of the most atmospheric spots on the whole island.
However, somewhere this glorious doesn’t remain a secret in the world of social media, and a visit here today sure isn’t what it used to be! Time it wrong and you might end up in a three hour queue, looking out to temple gates backed by nothing but white cloud.
That’s where we come in. We visited on a day when we over 500 people visited and yet we shared this spot with just six others. The trick is not as some people will tell you, to come at sunrise - that ship has sailed, and you’ll find it’s now one of the busiest times of day!
All our tips for when to come, how to get the shot, how to make sure you see Mount Agung and exactly what a visit here entails, is in our Pura Lempuyang guide.
Distance from Sidemen village: 30km (1 hour)
3. Slow down at one of the incredible hotels
Sidemen is the perfect place to slow down and unwind, far away from the hustle and bustle of Bali’s busier tourist hubs. It’s sparsely populated, so you feel like you’ve really escaped the crowds and can just enjoy the peace and tranquility of the rice fields.
The infinity pool at Wapa Di Ume
Whether it’s a homestay, or a luxury hotel, most places here come with incredible views - often looking out to Mount Agung or the rice paddies - and it’s likely you’ll find yourself wishing you could stay for longer.
You can find more on our accommodation recommendations below (or by clicking here) - and incase you’re wondering, we paid full price for our hotels, so you can be sure it’s an unbiased review!
The rice terraces at Sumanvaya
Our room at Wapa Di Ume
4. Climb the ladder to the treehouse of dreams
This spot feels like it’s straight from a fairytale. A tiny treehouse platform perched above the jungle and presided over by the might Mount Agung. It’s quite simply jaw dropping.
We sadly didn’t quite get there in time for sunrise, so the lighting was a little harsh and shadowy for photos, but the experience in person was incredible.
It’s actually better to go at sunset, but we saved our sunset weather window for Pura Lempuyang, so we’ll be back to this one for sunset next time we’re in Bali.
The walk to reach the viewpoint at Lahangan Sweet is short and easy enough, although it does involve climbing a small hill. You then head up the ladder and onto the platform, which is also easy - so long as you don’t have vertigo and it’s not high wind.
All the details on how to make sure you see Mount Agung and how to find this particular spot are in this guide.
Distance from Sidemen village: 34km (1 hour)
5. Dine in the best restaurant in East Bali
Ok, so we haven’t eaten in every restaurant in East Bali, but Asri Dining by Samanvaya would take some beating! I still dream about their grilled snapper…..
We only discovered it four days into our third visit to Sidemen (criminal) and after that, we didn’t eat anywhere else. Not only is the food outstanding, but the decor is stunning.
Whether you dine outside in the pretty courtyard area, inside surrounded by all the gorgeous plants, or upstairs in what feel likes private dining (but costs exactly the same) - it was all wonderful.
If you want to dine in the private rooms, you might want to book because there are only two - the views over the rice paddies are fabulous!
There’s a range of food from Bali classics to western options and there are half price cocktails during happy hour. It’s easily my favourite restaurant in Bali and I’m already looking forward to going back!
6. Kick back and relax at the incredible infinity pool bar
Yes, it’s a second infinity pool in the same guide, but we know not everyone wants to sit on the edge of a waterfall, so this is a more sedate option! The Monkey Bar offers the chance to swim in style and whilst the pool is not huge, it’s one of the most picturesque I have ever been to.
It sits on top of a cliff overlooking the jungle and has vast views all the way out to the ocean. Butterflies flit between the tropical flowers and it’s so picturesque it’s hard to believe that it’s real.
The bar plays chilled music and serves food and drinks which were ok, but not the highlight. You’re definitely here for the views! There’s a minimum spend of 75,000 rupiah per person (USD $5). Swimming costs 25,000 - which includes a towel - and the remaining 50,000 can be used on food and drinks.
It gets busier around lunch time and in the afternoons, so if you want a quiet swim you’re best off coming in the morning. Note that the access road to reach the bar is very steep. It’s sealed all the way, but we don’t recommend riding up it if you’re a novice scooter rider.
Distance from Sidemen Village: 20km (40 minutes)
7. Wander the rice fields
One of Sidemen’s main features are the huge rice fields found throughout the area. The endless swathes of green have been carved out over centuries and are made even more beautiful by the occasional temple, palm tree, or rustic hut that sits precariously on the terraces.
It may not be set on the edge of a cliff like Batad in the Philippines or Sapa in Vietnam, but Sidemen has its own charm. The fields here are not overrun with tourists, and you can take a stroll through the terraces and see no one at all.
Since our first visit there is now a designated area for walking amongst the rice fields, which does come with a nominal fee - 10,000 rupiah per person (USD $1). You can choose to walk the trail yourself, which is easy enough and what we chose to do as we were heading to the airport straight after, or you can hire a guide.
I had a good chat to the guide (Ketut) who was lovely and he quoted us 70,000 rupiah (USD $7) per hour for up to three people, which is a bit of a bargain.
He’ll show you more than you can see yourself, but if you simply want a wander, then you can definitely go alone and Ketut (or whoever is based at the ticket stand) will tell you the way. If you want to ask any questions about the guided services, his Whatsapp is: +62 852 3846 8381.
We also walked in a lovely spot where we weren’t charged anything at all (although you can’t walk as far), you can find the exact location on Google Maps here.
There’s a footpath on the right hand side of the road which leads to a temple, but takes you by several beautiful rice fields and terraces first.
8. Bathe in ethereal light at Bali’s most magical waterfall
If there’s a more magical waterfall experience in Bali than the cave waterfall at Tukad Cepung, we haven’t found it yet.
It’s a huge waterfall, which cascades into a deep canyon with swirling walls, that look like they’ve been perfectly sculpted, yet are entirely natural.
Add to this scene ethereal light rays and you have one of the most spectacular sights on the island.
The 550m walk to get there is also gorgeous, though you’ll want to bring shoes you don’t mind getting wet as the later section takes you straight through the canyon.
Having the perfect Tukad Cepung experience does require a little planning - the light rays don’t always appear, and it can get crowded. We have you covered on everything you need to know in this guide.
Distance from Sidemen village: 21km (40 minutes)
9. Enjoy a coffee with a world class view
We love a coffee with a view and the one from La Montagne Coffee is just incredible. Mount Agung sits majestically behind layers of lush green rice terraces and dense forest to create one of the most beautiful views in the area.
The fact you can drive right up to it and then relax with a coffee seems almost too good to be true.
The view from all the seats is good, but it’s one particular table that sits in prime position. I thought it would be near impossible to snag until I realised, as sensational as it is, no one wants to sit there! And that’s because it’s exposed to the full brunt of the intense Bali sun.
The upside is that if you’re keen on getting a photo, you’re not going to have any trouble because people take a few snaps and then head back to the cover of the terrace.
Whilst we highly recommend coming here for a drink, we don’t recommend eating here. Sadly the food isn’t great!
Distance from Sidemen village: 12km (25mins)
10. See Bali back in time in Iseh
This is a statement that so many places make, but Iseh felt as close as you’ll get to stepping back in time in Bali. Granted, there is power, internet and a lot of other things to show that Iseh is definitely part of the modern world, but you’ll get the chance to see local life that isn’t catered to tourists as much as most places in Bali.
It was recommended to us by many locals in Sidemen and whilst there isn’t anything to do as such, the views and the people are wonderful.
The best part of our visit to Iseh was heading to the Warung Organic, just north of Sidemen. The road to this restaurant follows a huge vista of rice terraces.
You can then get stuck into some home made organic food at the warung and take in the stunning views - which include Mount Agung if you’re lucky! The great thing is that the money here goes directly to the local community, as it did around much of Sidemen, which we always appreciate.
Distance from Sidemen village: 3.5km (5 mins)
11. Enjoy a glorious roadside view of Mount Agung
When we said we had you covered on Mount Agung viewpoints, we meant it. Whilst having so many spots in one guide might seem like overkill, once you set eyes on the volcano for the first time, you will definitely want to see more!
The views from Bukit Cinta are easy to reach, with one being right on the road side.
You can literally park by the small warung down the road from Bali Asli (you can find it on Google Maps by clicking here) and you’ll see the volcano rising behind the rice fields and plantations. If you walk a couple of minutes downhill into the grass you can get better photos (note that we visited when the grass was dead, so it doesn’t look as good as it normally would).
The second viewpoint is a minute down the road from the Bali Asli Restaurant (in the fields directly opposite the restaurant), and there are a few access points.
When facing away from the restaurant, head right and you’ll quickly see the obvious path that leads into the fields. This is the least muddy route and within minutes you’ll see the iconic view right in front of you. To get to the best photo spot you need to walk a few minutes downhill, there was one steep muddy patch on our visit, but it might be better in drier times.
The best time to visit is sunrise, if Agung is out from behind the clouds. We visited between 8 and 9am and the light was already quite harsh.
Distance from Sidemen village: 25km (45 minutes)
12. Take a dip in the crystal clear river
The best place to swim in the river is from the Wapa di Ume Resort, which is where our photos are taken. That’s purely because they keep the river clean.
You don’t have to be a guest, but you would have to eat or pay for the facilities at the hotel to be able to access it. If you want a public access point we were recommended to check out the dam area, but we ran out of time so we can’t verify how good it is.
At Wapa di Ume the river was glorious, cool and refreshing with crystal clear water - which didn’t come in the photos, so you’ll have to trust us on that! It’s incredibly picturesque with the cascades and boulders, and on a calm day it’s idyllic. At times when the river is high, the current is very strong and it’s best avoided. Even when I swam in dry season there was a bit of a current, which though wasn’t an issue, it’s worth checking before you go all in.
13. Delight in the secret cave waterfall you won’t have to share!
Yes Tukad Cepung reigns supreme when it comes to cave waterfalls, but unless you really luck out, you won’t get it to yourself for long. Goa Raja on the other hand is rarely visited and lies just 10 minutes down the road.
The walk is more adventurous (read rustic), but it’s easy enough and good fun. When you round the corner and get your first glimpse of the towering cave falls, you are definitely going to be wowed.
The pool is not deep enough to swim, but it’s deep enough to plunge and if you’re lucky you might also experience some beautiful light rays.
All the details on the secret cave waterfall are here.
Distance from Sidemen village: 24km (45 minutes)
14. Cross the rickety old yellow bridge
I’ll be honest and say that there’s not much to see on either side of this bridge, but personally I love these old rickety bridges, so it didn’t really matter! It takes you over the river and doesn’t feel the least bit precarious on foot.
The same probably can’t be said for scooter drivers though, because we saw more than one person falter at the sway!
It’s a fun little spot and offers a nice view of the river, which was only marred slightly by a bit of rubbish, which was a shame to see.
You can find it on Google Maps by typing in ‘Jembatan Kuning Tukad Yeh Unda’.
15. Climb the never ending staircase to Pura Bukit Sangkan Gunung
This was recommended to us by our home stay on our first trip to Sidemen, and it makes for a good little work out. Whilst it isn’t a long walk to the top, the stairs are really steep and the heat and humidity had us stopping for breath a few times!
The stairs are lined with pretty trees on either side and we saw lots of beautiful butterflies as we puffed our way to the top.
We were a little disappointed that the views at the top are quite obstructed, but what you could see was beautiful. The price to enter the area, which is charged at a local shop by the foot of the staircase, is 20,000 rupiah (approx USD $2) per person.
Locals refer it as “Bukit Temple”, but the actual name of the temple is Pura Bukit Sangkan Gunung, and it is on the biggest hill in the area. Naturally, this makes it a bit of a mission to get to by motorbike as the roads are steep and not in the best of condition. You’ll have no problems if you’re used to some of Bali’s steeper roads.
Distance from Sidemen village: 5km (15 minutes)
16. Visit the largest and holiest Hindu temple in Bali
Besakih temple is known as the holiest temple in Bali, and some of the buildings and stone work are fabulous. It has a slightly forlorn air, but I was still glad to see it as it’s a very historic sight for the Balinese.
However, we nearly didn’t include it in this guide because a visit here is fraught with scams, which is not the most pleasant experience. It’s the only place we’ve experienced harassment in Bali!
However, we figured if we explain how to avoid the scams, your visit will hopefully be smooth sailing. The first thing to know is that yes, you need a sarong (men and women), but it’s included in your ticket - the touts will deny this!
If your legs are covered, you don’t need one at all. Secondly, unless it’s full, you don’t need to park miles away as you’ll be ushered to do. You can drive right up to the entrance way, so long as you can nab a space.
Once inside you can take the guide which is included in your ticket price, or wander at your leisure. You can’t go inside many of the temples though, so a guide will help you navigate this.
The cost for entry, including a guide and sarong at time of writing, is 60,000 rupiah (USD $4) per person for foreigners.
Distance from Sidemen village: 17km (35 minutes)
Where to stay in Sidemen
Just in case you’re wondering, we paid full price for all the places we stayed, so you can be sure these are unbiased reviews!
Wapa Di Ume Resort
The second time we visited Sidemen we ate at Wapa Di Ume and admired the amazing swimming pools overlooking the jungle. We said one day we’d be back to stay, and it definitely didn’t disappoint! We stayed in the cheapest room and it was fantastic, with a truly unforgettable view. The sunken bathtub was also a highlight and of course the pools and river access.
The staff are lovely and can’t do enough for you - they even bring breakfast to your room if requested (at no extra charge).
You can check out the reviews and prices on Booking.com for:
Maha Neka Homestay
Maha Neka is the first place we stayed in Sidemen and a gem in the budget category. It’s a local homestay and is simple, but with a lot of nice touches. There are only two bungalows, so it’s a really nice and quiet place to stay. Every morning you are served breakfast on the porch of your room, overlooking the epic Mount Agung, a very special view.
The rooms are large, clean and comfortable, albeit with the typical firm beds. Despite the hot weather, the rooms stayed cool at night as there were gaps to let the cool air in, but a good mosquito net around the bed stopped the bugs.
The owners are also really nice with a couple of children who are playful and friendly. They also rent motorbikes and can give tips on what to see around the local area.
You can check out the reviews and prices on Booking.com for:
Camaya, Bali
If you want to book Camaya, you need to get on to it straight away. This property books out up to six months in advance, despite there being four different luxury bungalows to stay in. When you get there it’s easy to see why.
You’ve probably seen it on Instagram - bungalows set on the edge of a dramatic hill, overlooking rice fields, palm trees and of course Mount Agung. Each bungalow is slightly different, the most famous of which is the Bamboo House (pictured below). It is on two levels with two bedrooms, it’s own kitchen, hammock, outdoor bath and of course that amazing netted area for the ultimate private getaway.
If the bigger bungalows are out of your budget, look up Nirvana cottage which starts at US$70 a night.
You could easily come and spend a few days here and not even leave the property! Note that unlike our first two suggestions, this one is not in Sidemen itself, it’s a 20-25 minute drive away.
Check out the reviews and prices on Booking.com for the Butterfly House:
or check the reviews and prices on Booking.com for Suboya:
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