When you think of Waitomo, you think of glow worms. And It’s true that Waitomo has some of the best glow worms caves in the world, but there’s more to do here if you scratch under the surface.
Those that pass through for just a few hours are missing out on one of the highlights of the North Island. Stay a few nights and you’ll find spectacular waterfalls, ancient mossy forest, a huge natural arch, one of NZ’s highest swing bridges and even a beach where you can dig your own hot spring.
We’ll take you through all the top things to do, including several spots where you can see hundreds of glow worms without a tour.
Some of these activities are spread quite far apart, so you’ll want to factor journey time into your days if you want to explore far and wide.
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1: Visit the most magical glow worm cave in the country
2: Admire one of the North Island’s most beautiful waterfalls
3: Walk under the giant natural archway
4: Soak in your own private hot pool
5: Journey through the subterranean wonder of Ruakuri Cave
6: Discover the little known Omaru Falls
7: Dare to cross one of the longest, highest swing bridges in New Zealand
8: Enter Waitomo’s own tunnel beach
9: Marvel at the world famous Waitomo Caves
10: Delight in one of the North Island’s best short walks
11: Check out the gorgeous Waitanguru Falls
12: Feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of Lord of the Rings
13: Explore Piripiri Cave without a guide
Things to do in Waitomo
1. Visit the most magical glow worm cave in the country
And no, surprisingly it’s not Waitomo Caves (although that’s our second fave!). The best glow worm cave in New Zealand - and a highlight of the whole country - is Spellbound Cave.
Never has a name been more apt. Spellbound Cave has the wow factor and it’s far and away the most glow worms we have ever seen (and we’ve seen a lot!).
The ceiling of the cave glitters with thousands and thousands of them, creating what looks like the most exquisite night sky. There is barely an inch of space not illuminated by one of the twinkling blue lights and the effect is nothing short of extraordinary.
And if you needed any more convincing than that, just know that it was the cave that David Attenborough chose to visit on his trip to Waitomo.
We have a whole (unsponsored) guide dedicated to everything you need to know about visiting Spellbound Cave here.
2. Admire one of the North Island’s most beautiful waterfalls
Marokopa Falls is spectacular. The sheer power of the falls is mesmerising, but there’s also something about the shape of the cascades which is extremely beautiful.
It’s no wonder that it’s become a bit of an Instagram sensation in recent years.
The falls can be reached via a 800m (return) easy walking track (it took us 5 minutes each way) through some very pretty forest. It’s either flat or downhill on the way and then a gentle climb back up.
The path is really well maintained and it’s a breeze to reach the viewpoint. If you want to get closer to the falls it becomes trickier.
The path is unmaintained and very, very muddy. It’s that special kind of orange clay like mud that’s particularly nasty and slippery, so go carefully. It only takes a few minutes, but does require care.
The falls are a 35 minute drive from Waitomo Village on a sealed but very windy road.
3. Walk under the giant natural archway
The Mangapohue Natural Bridge is an incredible natural arch at one end of a beautiful limestone gorge. The 800m return walk to get there is stunning and on an easy well graded track.
You’ll pass through the towering gorge walls, over a little swing bridge and arrive at the arch itself. You can view it from below, or climb the staircases to get a closer look from up high.
It’s a really peaceful and serene spot with no sound but that of the occasional bird and water dripping on the limestone rock. It’s a really atmospheric spot.
Come back at night and you’ll find some of the best free glow worm displays in the country, we were awed by just how many there were and that we had the whole experience to ourselves.
You can find out more about exactly where the glow worms are in our detailed natural bridge guide.
Mangapohue Natural Bridge is a 30 minute drive from Waitomo village and just 5 minutes from Marokopa Falls.
4. Soak in your own private hot pool
That’s right, it’s not just the Coromandel that has its own hot water beach, Waitomo does too. Kawhia Beach is gorgeous, especially if low tide (which you need to access the hot water) lines up with sunset.
The reflections in the sand are some of the best we’ve ever seen, with complete mirror images of the clouds.
In order to create a hot pool you’ll need to bring your own shovel (most accommodation providers in the area can lend you one) and head down to the sand at low tide.
Full disclaimer, we visited after some crazy storms and though we could smell the sulphur, the water wasn’t hot - we checked with many locals and everyone said this is a really rare anomaly, so we feel comfortable still recommending it.
To be honest we were a little disappointed at first and then as the sun began to set it was so incredibly gorgeous that we would have come just to see that!
The walk to the beach takes less than five minutes, up and over the sand dune from the car park (it’s marked on Google Maps).
It takes roughly an hour to reach Kawhia from Waitomo village.
5. Journey through the subterranean wonder of Ruakuri Cave
The entry to Ruakuri Cave looks like something out of the Matrix: the spiral walkway is lit with red light and leads you down into the depths of the cavern, where you emerge into a whole other world.
The formations are delicate and beautiful, with thousands of stalactites, stalagmite, cave coral and curtains. The fully accessible walkway is low lit and sympathetically installed which makes for a really picturesque experience.
As well as the spectacular cave formations you’ll also see plenty of glow worms, including some which are very close up, which is always extra special.
If offered the opportunity to walk through one of the passages in complete darkness, definitely take it, it’s quite the experience!
Our guide was wonderful and you’ll learn a lot about caves and the history of Ruakuri on this 2km walk (New Zealand’s longest guided underground walking tour). You can book ahead and avoid the queues using GetYourGuide by clicking below.
Note that if you’re also planning to visit Waitomo Caves as well, you can get a good discount using their combo deal, which you need to book directly with the caves.
6. Discover the little known Omaru Falls
For reasons unknown, Omaru Falls doesn’t see nearly as many visitors as the other Waitomo waterfalls, yet it’s an absolute beauty.
The 5.6km return walk to get there is easy and predominantly flat, through forest and pretty farmland and then over a ricketty old swing bridge.
It can be a little muddy at the very beginning but it gets much better after that.
You’ll arrive at a lookout which offers a tremendous view both of the falls and surrounding limestone cliffs. Although you can’t get close to the waterfall, you definitely still feel its power and majesty. I feel like anywhere else it would be a must see attraction, but somehow here, it flies under the radar.
Omaru Falls is roughly a 35 minute drive from Waitomo village.
7. Dare to cross one of the longest, highest swing bridges in NZ
It’s long, it’s high and there’s just enough of a wobble to make it feel a little adventurous!
The Maramataha Bridge is not just fun to cross but also in a stunning setting, taking you over a raging river and forest that feels wild and untouched.
As you make your way across, look down into the cascades, you might spot one of the resident whio (blue duck), the rarest bird in New Zealand.
The bridge is located along the Timber Trail and can be reached on foot or by bicycle. The quickest route is just 5km return and is relatively flat and easy, taking you through lush native forest.
Everything you need to know about visiting the bridge can be found in this detailed guide.
Quite a large portion of the drive to the start of the trail is on gravel road which was suitable for any car at time of writing, but check our guide linked above for more details.
8. Enter Waitomo’s own tunnel beach
Waikawau Tunnel is Waitomo’s answer to Tunnel Beach in Dunedin. You walk through a tunnel hewn in-between the sandstone cliffs and out onto a stunning stretch of black sand beach.
It’s hard to believe it was dug out with shovels and pick axes in the early 1900’s!
Once you get onto the beach, it’s wild, windswept and incredibly dramatic. You need to visit at low tide or close to, in order to explore the beach fully and always be mindful of the swell. There are supposed to be some pretty cool sea caves to explore but alas we didn’t have a low enough tide for that.
If you’re lucky enough to be able to visit when low tide coincides with sunset then that would be the most beautiful time to be here.
Waikawau Beach is located 80km from Waitomo so it is quite a distance (but worth it for beach lovers!). There is also a stretch of narrow gravel road to navigate, but it’s in good condition and doesn’t require a 4WD.
9. Marvel at the world famous Waitomo Caves
Whilst we think Spellbound Cave pips Waitomo Caves when it comes to glow worms, when it comes to formations, Waitomo Caves is the clear winner.
The majority of your tour is spent wandering the passageways and caverns of the dry portion of Waitomo Caves. Your Maori guide will be a descendant of one of the original cave explorers, Chief Tane Tinorau, and your trip is enhanced by learning about some local history and culture.
The highlight of the cave (glow worms aside) is the huge cavern known as the cathedral, it’s a true wonder and if you’re lucky enough to be in the area at Christmas, it’s the location of an amazing carol service.
After walking through the dry section of the cave, you’ll then have a boat ride through a glow worm galaxy. It’s truly spectacular but over way too quickly!
If you love glow worms and want to know some more great spots around the country, we have you covered in this guide.
You can avoid the lengthy queues by booking your tickets with GetYourGuide. Just click on the button below to check out their availability and the latest prices. If you also want to visit Ruakuri Cave you can get a combo deal and should therefore book directly with the caves.
As no photos are allowed inside the cave, our glow worm pictures are from Whangarei’s Waipu Caves.
10. Delight in one of the North Island’s best short walks
The Ruakuri bush walk is a delight from start to finish. This easy 1.6km loop walk has more variety than you can possibly imagine on such a short trail.
You’ll pass through forest dripping in moss, in-between glorious limestone cliff walls, and through small caves and tunnels which keep it interesting every step of the way.
The walk does have some stairs but it’s mainly flat and the path is very well looked after.
It’s fabulous by day and simply magical by night. Return after dark to find hundreds upon hundreds of glow worms scattered throughout the track.
We’ve got all the details on where the biggest clusters of glow worms can be found in this post.
11. Check out the gorgeous Waitanguru Falls
Yes it’s another waterfall, but honestly you don’t want to miss it! It’s another superb falls and has the shortest walk of any to reach it. It’s just 200m each way and though it is mainly downhill on the way, it’s worth the climb on the way back up.
The path is well maintained and mainly involves steps so there’s no need to worry about slippery trail. The forest is also mossy and gorgeous, as so many are in the Waitomo area, so the walk is lovely in its own right.
You’ll then arrive at a lookout offering an excellent view of the falls and you’re close enough to feel the spray! If you want to get closer still, you can take the unmaintained trail just before the lookout which is a little muddy and slippery and requires a bit of care.
It’s just a few minutes until you’re down though, so if you’ve got decent shoes on it’s worth it. It looked like you could climb over the rocks and get very near to the base, but only if there isn’t too much water in the falls - which wasn’t the case on our visit!
Waitanguru Falls are around a 50 minute drive from the village and are just up the road from the Mangaotaki Walk. The last part of the drive in particular is very scenic.
12. Feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of the Lord of the Rings
If you’d dropped me in this breathtaking little patch of forest and asked me where I was, I would have guessed Fiordland.
The forest has that ancient feel and the thick covering of moss on every available surface has that mystical feel and definite Lord of the Rings vibes. No one seems to talk about this walk, but it had me in awe from the moment we set foot on the trail.
I know I’ve talked a lot about beautiful mossy forests in this post but honestly this one is on another level.
The 1km Mangaotaki Walk loop track is also easy and almost entirely flat. It’s not a smooth path but the knotted roots all add to the charm and give it that into the wilds feel that you won’t find on the well graded gravel paths.
If you love untouched forests then you just can’t miss it. It’s less than a 15 minute drive from the Waitanguru Falls (directly on route).
13. Explore Piripiri Cave without a guide
Piripiri Cave is quite small but it’s able to be visited without a guide and is worth a peep on your journey between Mangapohue Natural Bridge and Marokopa Falls.
The short walk takes you through some pretty native forest and though there are a few stairs to climb, it’s generally very easy.
The entrance way to the cave is quite atmospheric and you can then descend the staircases for better views. It’s not an ornate cave but it does have some formations and if you get it to yourself, there’s no noise at all and it almost feels eerie.
I wouldn’t say you need a torch as quite a bit of light enters the cave, the one on your phone should be fine if you do have any trouble adjusting your eyes.
The ones that got away!
There are a few activities that look amazing which were out of our budget for this trip that we thought still deserve a mention, in particular the blackwater rafting and cave abseiling trips.
Both look like incredible adventures and get amazing reviews which we’d recommend looking into if you’re looking for something more adrenaline filled. You can check the latest prices and availability by clicking below:
Where to stay in Waitomo
Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge
The Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge has a variety of rooms, including family rooms which all include a fantastic brekkie. It’s set in lovely gardens and though there are no private cooking facilities, you can use the communal BBQ and microwave if you want to make a light meal.
The hosts get rave reviews and are happy to lend you a torch for any nighttime excursions into the bush!
You can check out the reviews and prices on:
Getting to Waitomo
Waitomo is located roughly a 2 hours and 30 minute drive from Auckland (200km) and 1 hour 50 minutes (140km) from Rotorua. It’s almost a six hour drive to Wellington.
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