This was the first walk we ever did in Ku-ring-gai and it’s still one of our favourites today. In one fantastic 10km loop you’ll get peaceful bushland, gorgeous water views, the chance to spot Swamp Wallabies and even a cafe mid way through.
It’s not a difficult trail but there’s enough of a climb to make you feel like you’ve had a good work out.
If you’re looking for some peace and serenity in a very pretty stretch of forest this is the trail for you.
Here’s what to expect on one of Ku-ring-gai National Park’s best walks.
Sphinx Memorial to Bobbin Head Loop Track
The stats
Distance: 10km
Elevation: 267m
Difficulty: Moderate
Type of trail: Loop
Start of trail: Sphinx Memorial or Empire Marina
The Sphinx Memorial trail is a not a difficult walk but it does have a couple of climbs. The terrain is generally pretty good but you will have some rocks and tree roots to contend with. You could walk it in a few hours or spend a leisurely afternoon, stopping by the creek and at the cafe.
Which is the best place to start the trail?
We’ve started the trail from both the Sphinx Memorial and the Empire Marina several times and we prefer the Sphinx which is where we’ll start for this guide.
Starting at the Sphinx means you’ll get to the Empire Marina exactly half way through the walk which is the perfect point to stop for a drink at the cafe! It does mean that you begin by descending though, whereas in the opposite direction you’ll get the ascent out the way first, so it really is a case of personal preference!
The Sphinx Memorial
Starting the trail down to Cowan Creek
The trail from the Sphinx begins by heading downhill on a mixture of stairs and rock for roughly 500m. It’s a peaceful stretch of forest and you’ll start to hear bird song almost immediately.
Just when you think the descent has gone on for quite a while you’ll reach a flat section of track. It only lasts for around 400m before you start descending again though!
There’s a few hundred metres more downhill track to go before it levels out and you come to a beautiful patch of ferns on either side of the path.
You can then walk down a couple of extra steps, just off the trail, to get to the water’s edge.
Cowan Creek is so still that the reflection of the trees and the clouds in the water was like a mirror, just beautiful. If you fancied an early swim it would make a nice spot for a dip!
Onto the Warrimoo Trail
Back up the steps from the creek is the junction with the Warrimoo trail and you’ll follow it left towards Bobbin Head. The trail heads alongside the water, just above it, and the path is a combination of undulating and flat.
You’ll always have the creek to your right which makes for a lovely sight inbetween the trees. There are some pretty impressive rock formations to your left and don’t forget to keep an eye out for Goannas, we’ve often seen them here.
After 700m the views of Cowan Creek will be replaced by mangroves and the trail is nice and flat so you can really zone out from watching your footing and just enjoy the peace and serenity of the forest.
After a further 600m you drop down slightly into what feels like a dried up river bed and it was in this part of the trail that we heard the most incredible amount of birds!
We could hear around six different species all at once, and rather than the squawking of the birds you often hear in the city, it was like a beautiful melody!
The whole chorus sounded really quite magical and the only sound we could definitely identify was the Whipbird. It’s the sort of spot that is quite difficult to move on from!
Continuing to Empire Marina
Just a little further on from the mangrove area you’ll come to a small water crossing. Depending on how much rain there has been it’s either virtually non existent or a light gushing which can make it a little bit slippery.
You’ll then be back walking alongside the creek where you can often see cormorants. There is the odd cut through right down to the water if you want to take a break.
There is one section with fairly long grass that you have to walk through, if it’s been very wet check your boots for leeches when you get to the marina! We’ve picked up a few hitchhikers here!
Just before you arrive at the marina there is a little side track down to the water and there are some huge rocks which make for a good spot to sit and enjoy the views. You can see the marina from here and with the boats in sight it feels like re-entering civilisation.
Exactly 5km into the trail you’ll reach a junction where a left turn will continue the walk and the path straight on will take you to the marina.
It’s a 150m (each way) detour to get to the marina and there is a cafe there serving cold drinks and snacks.
We can never resist by this point, particularly as we know that the next part of the walk is the climb.
Onto the Bobbin Head Track
After the cafe retrace your steps back to the junction and here begins the only sustained climb of the trail.
You’ll start on quite a steep track which is mainly stairs cut into the rock. It’s steep enough that very quickly you get a great view back over the marina!
The next part of the walk is on fire trail, not normally our favourite but we like this section because it is where we often see Swamp Wallabies.
When hiking midweek we have an 100% success rate (we’re always at this bit late afternoon), it’s not so good on the weekends, although you might get lucky if you come very early.
They tend to be quite shy but after they bounce along the trail they tend to sit and graze a little way off the track and if you’re quiet you can usually observe them for quite a while.
Back to the trail, and it continues uphill for roughly 2.3km. It sounds like a lot but once you hit the fire trail it is mainly on gentle switchbacks and this really eases the pain.
It has only really felt difficult when we hiked on an intensely hot day and quite a bit of it is fully exposed to the sun.
For the most part, wallabies aside, there isn’t anything especially exciting on this section but it’s pleasant enough with trees lining both sides of the path.
The Aboriginal Engraving Site
After the path has completely flattened out for a kilometre you’ll reach a turn off on your right for the Aboriginal engraving site, it takes just 30 seconds to get to. Unfortunately it is completely exposed to the elements so it hasn’t faired too well.
The information board tells you what to look out for and unfortunately we could only spot the fish! It’s still worth a look though and you might be better at deciphering them than we were!
Our outline of the only engraving we could see!
We noticed that there were emus on the sign, such a shame that they aren’t around this area anymore, they are one of my favourite Aussie icons!
The home stretch
The flat fire trail continues for another 1.6km before you come to the turn off on your left for the Sphinx Track. You’ll start heading into the forest (and back into shade again if you’re hiking on a hot day!) and the trail meanders downhill.
This is another place we’ve seen wallabies before so keep an eye out! I always forget and think as we go downhill that we’ll have to repay that debt heading back up to the Sphinx but luckily you don’t.
Before you know it you’ll see the Sphinx in the distance and the trail is flat but for one staircase back up to the car park.
It’s the end of a great walk and the chance to see a lovely part of Ku-ring-gai which is not along the coast.
If you’re looking for another great bush walk in the area, we’d highly recommend checking out the Gibberagong Track which also has the opportunity for a swim along the way!
Packing suggestions for Ku-Ring-Gai National Park
Having the right gear can make a huge difference. Here’s what we pack and have relied upon for years:
Sunscreen: Cancer Council Active. With a high SPF, but not the greasy feel of other sunscreens. Makes a big difference when you’re working up a sweat on a sunny day! Check it out on Amazon
Good Rain Jacket: North Face This is an essential item we always pack in our bag! This jacket from North Face is designed to keep you dry but also comfortably warm (many rain jackets will make you feel like you’re in a sauna). Check it out on Amazon
Bushman Spray: Good for keeping off the mozzies and any other bugs. Check it out on Amazon.
Day Pack: Osprey Talon 22 (we’ve owned this for years). Check on Amazon or direct with Osprey
Hiking Boots: Merrell Moab (for men and women). We’ve both used these for over three years and they just keep going. Check them out on Amazon
Trekking poles: We’ve used Black Diamond for years as they are light, solid and durable. Check them out on Amazon.
Reusable water bottle: To avoid single-use plastic. Check them out on Amazon
Essential information about the Sphinx Memorial to Bobbin Head Loop Track
Car Parking at the Sphinx
The park is generally open from sunrise to sunset and there is a gate that enforces this. If you get your car stuck you’ll have to pay a $50 fee to get the gate unlocked. If you think you are cutting it fine you can park along the road just before the ticket collection booth. This has no time limit and the parking is free. It will add roughly five minutes walking each way to get to the trail head.
Public transport to the Sphinx
It’s not a very easy journey by public transport if you’re coming from the city. We’d recommend hiring a car, but if you can’t, take a train to North Turramurra and then take the 577 bus to the Ku-ring-gai High School. From there it’s a 15 minute walk to the trail head.
Ku-ring-gai National Park entrance fee
The entry fee for vehicles is $12. If you’re planning to visit several times or several parks in NSW it might be worth buying the annual pass instead. That’s $65 for all parks except Kosciuszko.
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Are you heading to Ku-ring-gai for a hike? Is the Sphinx Memorial to Bobbin Head Loop Track one of your favourites? Let us know in the comments!
