Touted as one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, a trip on the Flåm Railway is one of the top reasons that people choose to visit the area. With images of a train curving past snow-capped mountains, powerful waterfalls and lush green valleys, it’s easy to see why it holds such allure.
Was the scenery spectacular? Yes, absolutely, it’s easily one of the most stunning train rides we’ve ever been on. Was it worth it? Sort of.
It definitely wasn’t the journey we’d been expecting, although I’ll admit we hadn’t read too much about it before boarding.
Here’s everything we learnt to help you plan a perfect trip on the Flåm Railway.
Things to know before boarding the Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana)
1. It’s not strictly a tourist train
Given the way the train is marketed, I’d just assumed it was straight up tourist train. It’s actually a regular train that just happens to travel along a very scenic section of track.
Although there are nods to tourism with the little videos playing (silent) facts about the train and announcements that will tell you which side of the train to look out for the best views, it’s otherwise a regular train journey.
Now we’re not big fans of super touristy activities generally speaking, so it’s quite nice that it isn’t just a tourist attraction.
However, it can lead to issues because you think you’re on a tourist train where you simply turn up, sit down and get taken to the top and back to where you started again without any thought. This leads me on to point number two.
2. Check the timetables before you book
The Flåm Railway was built to connect the Oslo to Bergen line with the fjords. The timetable changes throughout the year, and whilst most of them arrive at Myrdal and immediately turn around and head back to Flåm, this isn’t always the case.
On our journey, we arrived at Myrdal Station after the one hour train ride and around 95% of our train disembarked and immediately crossed the platform to continue their onward journey.
We silently celebrated the fact that we would now have the run of the carriage, able to flit between each side of the train as the views opened up. What luck!
That was until 30 minutes passed and there was no movement. Then an hour passed and we finally discovered that the train was not leaving for over two hours.
By which point it would be dark. Not only did we sit for over two hours on a train platform, but the second half of our - let’s face it - very expensive train journey, would now be in the dark.
Now you could blame us for not asking about the return journey, but when you think you’re booking a tourist train you just assume it’s set up for tourists, plus this is written on their website: Ticket information: Roundtrip with immediate return.
The person at the ticket office never mentioned anything to us about a delayed return, so make sure you check the return times before you book tickets - or you could be in for a looong wait.
3. It is all about the journey, not the destination
As we’ve eluded to above, the Flåm Railway is all about the scenic journey and not the final destination! Apart from minor stops at tiny villages, there are two stops on the train: the waterfall and Myrdal.
Myrdal is essentially a connection for the train line that runs between Oslo and Bergen. There’s a pretty average cafe (I feel average is even being a little kind here), but otherwise it’s just a platform, albeit with lovely views. So we wouldn’t recommend spending any time up at the station as you’ll find very little to do!
4. Getting a window seat is not always easy
This shouldn’t be a problem in the off season, but if you’re travelling during peak times, you’re going to need to get in the queue to board the train if you want to get that window seat.
Depending on which side of the train you’re on, the configuration is in blocks of four or six seats, and people will fight for those window seats.
An orderly queue forms at least 30 minutes before the train departs, but once the chain is removed it’s like people are fighting for the last groceries at the store and it’s a stampede.
My advice would be to head right down to the furthest end of the train because people generally hop on as early as they can. You really do want a window seat otherwise you’re just staring over people’s shoulders, or down the middle of a regular old passenger train.
5. One side of the train has much better views
Whilst there are views on both sides of the train, the biggest wows are on the right side (when departing Flåm). The ideal way to make the most of the views is to sit on the right one way and the other side on the way back if you can wangle it - but make sure at least one of your journeys is on the right.
The best view of the whole journey is actually on the left side when departing Flåm, but this is of the waterfall at which the train makes a stop for five minutes and everyone is allowed to get out and admire it up close, so you won’t miss out.
The other giant waterfalls which tumble down the sheer cliffs are more prolific on the right.
6. Not all the windows open - but that might be a good thing
On our train, one window in every three was able to be opened. If you’re keen on photography or videography, you need to be sat at one of these seats.
The windows - whilst not overly dirty - are very reflective, so it’s extremely difficult to get good photos if you can’t shoot through the open window.
However, if you’re not overly bothered about photos then I would recommend picking one of the seats by the windows that don’t open.
The ones which do have several thick silver bars running across them which I found really distracting. I definitely preferred sitting by the windows that can’t open to get lost in the views.
You also have to shut the windows every time you go through a tunnel, of which there are 20 (each way), and it does get a tiny bit tedious after about tunnel number 10……
7. Early and late is the best time to go
If you don’t like the idea of being squished into a train at full capacity, you want to try and go early or late.
Cruise ship passengers tend to go on the train in the middle of the day, so if you can take the first or last train then you are likely to find it quieter.
However, don’t make our mistake, and do make sure that you’re taking a train with a return journey that works for you.
Although there is a small cafe at the train station, trust me it’s not somewhere you want to be stuck for hours, so connecting trains trump low crowds in this case.
8. You can cycle it one way
If you’re feeling active then I think the absolute best way to experience the Flåm Railway is to go one way, using a bike to return back down the mountain again.
There are bikes available for rent one way and a well maintained bike track which will take you through the breathtaking scenery, making for a unique adventure.
The journey back is 20km and though you can’t always see the bike path from the train, the bits I did see looked in excellent condition and would have made for a fun adventure.
You could also walk down the mountain too, which would also be great if you have plenty of time on your hands.
You can learn more about this option here.
9. It is a very beautiful journey
In 2014, Lonely Planet named The Flåm Railway as the most beautiful train journey in the world, and it is incredibly scenic. Along the way you’ll see small villages, huge waterfalls, ice blue rivers, snow-capped mountains and much more as you venture higher and higher up the mountain.
You even get to step off the train for five minutes to see an incredibly powerful waterfall, which is absolutely stunning.
However, a lot of the roads in the area have jaw-dropping views, so whilst the train ride is beautiful, it’s hard to really say it’s a step above simply driving around the fjords, which is spectacular at every turn. Although it does have the novelty value that these views are from a train and not your car and it does allow drivers to enjoy them too : )
So is the Flåm Railway worth it?
I think the answer to this depends. If you’ve only got the time or budget for either the Flåm Railway or the Flåm cruise along the Nærøyfjord, I would pick the cruise. The scenery is even more beautiful - my one gripe is the lack of outdoor seating. In fact it’s one of the most stunning boat rides we’ve ever done.
The Flåm Railway is also one of the most beautiful train journeys we’ve done, but it did come with its downsides. However, assuming that you book a connecting train, preferably early or off season, and get a great seat, then it’s worth it. If you cycle or hike one way then it’s going to be even more memorable.
But it is expensive and not for everyone. If you don’t get a window seat then I would say it’s definitely not worth the money, so time your visit carefully.
Overall I am glad we made the journey, but also glad that we did the cruise. Initially we were planning to just pick one of the two and I would have picked the train for novelty value. That would have been a mistake.
Booking info for the Flåm Railway
As is probably fairly obvious we have no affiliation with the train and paid for our own ticket. Whilst we weren’t impressed with the service via the ticket office run by Norways Best, it is the only company as far as we’re aware to buy your ticket (independently) and you can do so here.
Current round trip prices start at 650NOK per person (USD $62).
Where to stay in Flåm
As there’s a lot to do in Flåm, we highly recommend staying in the area. We chose to stay in the Skaimsberg Apartments in Aurland, which is a 15 minute drive from Flåm.
Skaimsberg Apartments
The first thing that stands out is the stunning view across the valley, which you can enjoy from the huge floor to ceiling windows. There’s everything you need to self cater and even a washing machine.
The bedrooms are a little spartan in their furnishings, but the beds are very soft and comfy. It was easily the best place we stayed during our three weeks in Norway and especially good value if you have four people as there are two bedrooms.
Check availability and prices:
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