The Couranga Track is one of the lesser known trails in Royal National Park and for that reason it will probably be one of the quietest walks you’ve tried in the park.
It starts at Waterfall Train Station and heads down through a dry eucalyptus forest to a truly stunning rainforest. You can join up with the sensational Forest Path if you want a longer walk and even more of a treat!
If you’re ready for an afternoon exploring Royal National Park’s most spectacular forests, this is the walk for you.
So here’s what to expect from the Couranga Track, one of our favourite bush walks in Sydney.
The Couranga Track
The Stats
Distance: 10.1km
Elevation: 295m
Difficulty: Moderate
Type of walk: Return
The Couranga Track isn’t a difficult walk, but there is a section of rough terrain and the distance makes it a moderate hike when compared to others in Royal National Park. We recommend allowing 2.5-3 hours for the walk, so you can enjoy it at a leisurely pace.
Starting the trail
The trail starts from Waterfall Train Station and follows the beginning of the Uloola Track for 1.1km. It starts with a narrow bush path, before arriving at the helicopter clearing and heading onto the fire trail. The path is wide and easy going. It’s pretty much flat or very gradually ascending at a gradient you won’t really notice.
After just over 1km you will see a sign on the right for the start of the Couranga Track. The path is immediately narrower, leaving the fire trail behind and taking you properly into the bush.
The leisurely bushwalk
So we’re not going to lie, the first 2.5km of the Couranga Trail are unremarkable. It’s pleasant enough, but in a national park with a lot of very beautiful trails, it feels fairly mundane. The forest is pretty and there’s some nice birdlife but it isn’t going to be winning any wow factor awards.
After 1.4km from the turning onto the Couranga Track, the trail heads sharply downhill and the path gets pretty rough, it’s basically loose rubble. It’s not particularly slippery but it does mean that for 600m you aren’t really looking at what’s around you but at your feet. It’s lovely and shady though, which is perfect if you’re walking on a hot day.
At this point, you’ll be forgiven for wondering why on earth we think this trail is worth talking about. Then you’ll reach the creek and see a dramatic transformation.
Heading into the rainforest
Until now, you’ve been walking through fairly typical bush land, pretty but as mentioned not remarkable. However, after 3km you’ll start walking alongside a creek and almost instantly you’re in a dense, green rainforest. There’s a tiny little cascade on the left and from this moment in, the walk becomes more gorgeous with every step.
The path begins to smooth out which is great because there’s a lot of beautiful plants to take in. At first there’s just the odd tree fern and Cabbage tree palm but soon it becomes more much dense and spectacular. It is noticeably damp, which is a marked difference from the forest above and you immediately feel like you’ve stepped into a rainforest.
I couldn’t believe how much it changed in only around 500m and how absolutely beautiful this stretch of forest is. The rapid transformation made it feel like you’d switched walks entirely and it was an absolute delight. After roughly 1km on a smooth dirt path in the stunning forest you’ll get good views of the creek to your left.
The creek
The creek gets much wider and the emerald water is surrounded by huge mossy boulders which have Tropical North Queensland vibes. At the 4.25km mark you’ll see a side trail down to the water and it’s well worth heading down for a couple of minutes to get a close up view of the creek and the cascades.
I filed it away as an incredible wild swimming spot to return to when the weather warms up, before finding it can suffer from urban runoff, oh the disappointment! It’s an otherwise truly idyllic spot.
After the creek you head back to the main path and continue through the forest. After 250m you’ll see another trail on your left, it’s unmarked but very distinct. This joins up to one of our favourite walks in Royal National Park, the Forest Path.
If you’re loving this section of the track and you have the energy to take on another 4.5km of easy trail then definitely make the diversion. It’s even more dense and sensational than the rainforest section of the Couranga Track and an absolute joy to walk through.
There are hanging vines and narrow paths lined by ginormous tropical plants. If you don’t fancy it as this point definitely come back to check it out another day.
From the Forest Path turn off, to finish the Couranga Track, you’ll continue straight down the main trail for another 250m before coming to a creek crossing.
If there’s been recent rainfall it’s a little muddy on the way down, but it’s not difficult to cross (unless there has been some serious flooding which we personally haven’t experienced) and it’s another really picturesque scene.
You can walk along the creek for a while if you want to explore, before retracing your steps and climbing up the other bank.
The beautiful rainforest continues for another 450m before you reach the end of the track. We heard an amazing Lyrebird display here, at first we thought it was a Whipbird but when we heard multiple different bird sounds all coming from the same spot we knew we were witnessing the incredible mimicking of a Lyrebird, always such a delight to hear.
The end of the trail
The end of the trail is unfortunately very moving. To the right of the trail is a memorial - a tree, with a butterfly attached, flowers at the base and messages taped to it.
We spoke to a family that were on the trail and they told us the disturbing story of how someone had been murdered and this is where the body had been buried. It’s a jarring end to the Couranga Trail and something which was really upsetting to hear about.
The national parks in Sydney have always been our escape, the havens of peace and tranquility that is a catharsis from the stress of modern life. To see that someone had committed a heinous crime and buried someone here, in this stunning rainforest, was incomprehensible to us. Our hearts go out to the family.
The memorial has been done beautifully and it is a moving tribute.
The hike back up
The only way back to Waterfall Station is to head up the way you came. It starts with a gradual uphill climb through the rainforest, before hitting that rocky section again.
At this point the trail gets fairly steep, and the majority of the 238m total trail elevation comes in this section. It isn’t long before you’re on the flatter, non-rocky section of the trail again though, and you can enjoy a relaxing kilometre in the forest before rejoining the Uloola Track. The light along the final stretch of fire trail can be really nice if you’re here around sunset.
Essential information about the Couranga Track
Parking at the trail
If you want to drive and park at Waterfall Train Station there is plenty of space and there are no fees.
Public transport to the trail
The Couranga Track is an easy walk to do using public transport as it starts and ends at Waterfall Train Station, on the Eastern Suburbs & Illawarra line, which takes around an hour from Central Station.
The one way alternative
If you don’t fancy hiking the same trail twice, then you can make the Couranga Walk into a one-way track by adding on part of the Forest Path and using the park shuttle to Lady Carrington Drive. As the shuttle isn’t very frequent, then we recommend taking the shuttle first and going home on the train from Waterfall Station.
You can find the shuttle time table through this link (it changes depending on the season and costs $9 one way).
National Park fees
This part of the park doesn’t incur the vehicle entry fees so there is nothing to pay to walk this track.
Packing suggestions for Royal National Park
Having the right gear can make a huge difference, especially in Royal National Park. Being on the coast, the conditions can change rapidly, so packing correctly can make a big difference.
Here’s what we pack and have relied upon for years:
Sunscreen: Cancer Council Active. With a high SPF, but not the greasy feel of other sunscreens. Makes a big difference when you’re working up a sweat on a sunny day! Check it out on Amazon
Good Rain Jacket: North Face This is an essential item we always pack in our bag! This jacket from North Face is designed to keep you dry but also comfortably warm (many rain jackets will make you feel like you’re in a sauna). Check it out on Amazon
Day Pack: Osprey Talon 22 (we’ve owned this for years). Check on Amazon or direct with Osprey
Hiking Boots: Merrell Moab (for men and women). We’ve both used these for over three years and they just keep going. Check them out on Amazon
Trekking poles: We’ve used Black Diamond for years as they are light, solid and durable. Check them out on Amazon.
Reusable water bottle: To avoid single-use plastic. Check them out on Amazon
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Are you planning on hiking in Royal National Park? Would you do the Couranga Trail? Let us know in the comments below!
