Arenal Volcano National Park is one of the most popular in the country, and though we didn’t think it had the best volcano views when compared to other hikes we did in the area, it was definitely the easiest trail. When we say it didn’t have the best views, it still had good views, and if you walk the whole circuit, you’ll also experience a beautiful rainforest. The star of the forest is a gigantic Ceiba tree, which survived the 1968 eruption, and will make you feel very small, in the best possible way.
Here’s everything you need to know about hiking in Arenal Volcano National Park.
Arenal Volcano National Park
Which trail is right for you
Arenal Volcano National Park has two different sections: the main one that almost everyone visits (Sector Volcan) and the much quieter Sector Peninsula, which was closed at the time of our visit. The trails to see the volcano begin at the Sector Volcan.
Though technically there are three tracks, one is really just a connector (Las Heliconias) from the entry gate car park to the main car park.
The two main trails are Las Coladas, which is the one with the volcano viewpoint, and El Ceibo, the one through the rainforest. We would highly recommend hiking both trails which form a circuit.
The El Ceibo trail is much more beautiful than Las Coladas, so you’re really missing out if you hike Las Coladas both ways - particularly if Arenal is under cloud. If that’s the case, then Las Coladas really doesn’t have much to offer, whereas El Ceibo is stunning.
Hiking the circuit is 1.9km longer than an out and back walk on the Las Coladas track.
The one thing to consider before hiking El Ceibo though, is that sections are very muddy (even in the dry season). It wasn’t slippery, but it’s not a track for any shoes you want to keep pristine.
Las Coladas is the most popular walk and therefore more well maintained. The path is great for much of the way, but there is a portion where you’re hiking over the old lava flow and this is rocky and uneven - we did see someone sadly twist an ankle here, which looked nasty, so just watch out for that section. Otherwise it’s smooth sailing.
You don’t need a guide at the park unless you are hoping to spot wildlife, in which case you might want a helping hand.
The Arenal Volcano National Park circuit walk
The stats
Distance: 5.5km loop
Elevation gain: 115m
Difficulty: Easy, but not flat
Starting the Las Coladas Track
Whichever trail you choose, the first 1km are all along the same path. It’s a dirt track or sometimes lightly gravelled, and it’s in excellent condition. It’s a very easy start to the walk as it’s almost entirely flat.
The beginning of the trail is actually one of my favourite parts because you’ll be walking inbetween the tall grass which absolutely towers over you.
Once you leave the tall grass behind you’re hiking beside forest, but it’s not that dense, and you do feel like you’re beside it, rather than in it - a stark contrast to the El Ceibo trail.
It does get a bit denser and more rainforest like as you continue, but it’s nothing on what’s to come later if you do the full circuit.
After just over 1km you’ll come to the junction with the El Ceibo trail (it’s signposted) but continue on straight to get to the volcano viewpoint.
To the volcano viewpoint
Just over 400m from the junction you’ll take a left to head up to the viewpoint. There’s a set of metal stairs to climb and then it’s time to walk on the old lava flow (from the 1992 eruption).
The dark rocks are jagged and sharp, but not slippery to walk on. Just watch your footing because this is prime ankle twisting territory.
After just over 100m climbing up the lava flow, you’ll come to the first viewpoint.
Hopefully a great view of Arenal is waiting for you here. Unfortunately for us we had a fair amount of cloud, so we never saw the top of the volcano.
We waited patiently hoping the wind might blow the cloud over, but it actually got more and more obscured. Still there are plenty of big rocks to sit on, so it’s a good spot to sit and either admire the volcano, or wait and hope.
It is a good view, but the reason I said it’s not as good as some of the views on other trails is because it’s more obscured by trees. You also don’t get the black volcanic rock in the foreground like you do at Mirador El Silencio and Arenal 1968 which I think adds a touch of drama to the scene.
Onto the second viewpoint and joining the El Ceibo trail
Just 200m from this viewpoint is a second viewpoint, which looks to Arenal volcano in one direction and Lake Arenal in the other. Lake Arenal is pretty distant from here, but the Arenal view is more unobstructed than the first.
You can see a few volcanic rocks peeking out from between the trees and a bit more of Arenal is visible too.
The stretch of track between the two viewpoints is mainly on the uneven lava flow. There is a little bit of downhill track and it’s very rocky.
This is where you should really watch your step as some of the rocks do move, and it is easy to roll an ankle.
After visiting viewpoint two, you’ll head back along the trail and down the metal staircase. This is where you’ll see a sign for the El Ceibo trail. If you don’t want to do the circuit, you’ll retrace your steps to the car park at this point.
Through the rainforest
The El Ceibo trail is definitely my favourite part of the whole walk. The canopy is dense and it’s wonderfully shady.
You suddenly start to hear the calls of various birds and other wildlife crashing through the trees - we were always hopeful it might be monkeys, but most of the time it was curassow - which was still lovely of course!
The path through the rainforest is mainly flat and the first kilometre has very little in the way of mud - nothing you can’t easily skirt around.
The rainforest is exactly how you pictured hiking in Costa Rica would be, endless gnarled trees, hanging vines, and tree ferns. It’s so relaxing and although not quiet, less people walk this trail than Las Coladas.
Reaching the forest giant and finishing the trail
After a little over 1km in the forest you’ll reach the ceiba tree. Incidentally there is a big tree a bit before this, and we originally thought this was the famous tree.
It was impressive in its own right, but when you get to the main ceiba tree you’ll see its on another level. The tree is over 400 years old, which is impressive in an area where much of the forest has been destroyed by volcanic eruptions.
It’s an absolute giant, with sprawling roots and even a hollow where you can see a colony of micro bats roosting (it’s on the right side of the tree).
From the ceiba tree, the trail continues through breathtaking rainforest and you’ll likely see many birds, and hear a lot more!
The foliage is often too dense for you to see what’s making all the noise, but it’s fun to try and spot things. Unfortunately after the tree, there’s around 500m of pretty bad mud.
Sometimes the only way is straight through. For us in dry season this wasn’t suck the boot off your foot mud, but it was pretty thick and squelchy. Totally worth it, but perhaps not in sandals - we did see a few brave people going for it though!
Just over 1km from the ceiba tree the forest begins to thin and a further 200m later you’re back at the original trail junction (with the Las Coladas track).
The last kilometre is either flat, or very gently downhill on the well maintained path again.
The third Arenal viewpoint
If the weather is in your favour it’s well worth checking out the third Arenal viewpoint. From the trailhead you can walk for 600m each way to reach it, but it’s along the road - so there’s no point unless you fancy more exercise. We grabbed our car and drove up instead.
You’ll find a covered picnic area and hopefully a great view of the volcano. I think it’s actually one of the best ones in the park, so it’s well worth a look if it’s clear.
The best time to visit Arenal Volcano National Park
If you like your trails quiet, then you’ll want to visit early or late in the day, as this park is very popular. But as you’re almost certainly coming for the volcano views, the best time to come is when you catch a clear day (or hour as is more often the case) and that’s more important than the crowds.
Avoid weekends if you can, but again it’s better to pick the best weather window. Unfortunately this can be easier said than done as the weather in Arenal National Park is notoriously unpredictable. There is often not a cloud in the sky in La Fortuna, but a thick grey mass surrounding the volcano. We found our trusty weather website that has done so well for us with volcano viewing in New Zealand and Bali just couldn’t get it right in Costa Rica!
Arenal Volcano National Park opening hours and entry fees
The park is open daily between 8am and 4pm. We’ve tended to find there’s often some leniency with the exit time in Costa Rica, but as we visited Arenal in the middle of the day, we can’t swear to it. The park can have queues getting in during peak season, but not always. We queued once, but also drove past several times and there weren’t any cars waiting, so it’s probably down to luck.
The entry fees are currently:
Adult non-resident: USD $15 plus tax
Child USD $5 plus tax
Residents and nationals will pay a lower rate.
Getting to Arenal Volcano National Park
Arenal Volcano National Park is located around 16km and just over a 20 minute drive from La Fortuna. If you don’t have a rental car you can catch a shuttle or take a taxi.
Where to stay in La Fortuna
Arenal Observatory Lodge
The Arenal Observatory is a pretty special place. The lodge has incredible views of the iconic Mount Arenal - even from the rooms!
The rooms are clean, comfortable and well away from the hustle and bustle of La Fortuna town.
It’s surrounded by nearly 900 acres of privately managed rainforest, there are walking trails and even a bird sanctuary on site.
Check the latest prices & availability on:
Apartamento Equipados RyA del Volcan
For those looking for a comfortable stay in a central location, this apartment is a great choice.
Apartamento Equipados RyA del Volcan is a short walk from the centre of La Fortuna, so you don’t have to worry about finding parking or paying for a taxi every time you go out for a meal.
The rooms are stylishly furnished, clean and have a small living area and kitchen for the times you don’t fancy eating out.
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