If you’re looking for one of the most spectacular waterfall walks in Costa Rica, you’ve found it. There are four utterly mesmerising waterfalls along this track (not just Catarata Tesoro Escondido), all of which have incredible blue water that you can swim in.
Each has something different to offer, from a huge waterfall that cascades over a towering cliff wall, to a smaller cave like waterfall, and then the one that almost nobody visits. It’s hidden in a gorge at the far end of the track and as you emerge from the forest into the gorge; it’s like you’ve stepped into the Garden of Eden.
It’s completely untouched, with dazzling blue water and mossy walls that barely have an inch of space not covered by dense foliage. It’s so blue that I know people will assume it’s been photoshopped.
I am pretty sure that finding it was the moment that we decided to extend our trip in Costa Rica. It’s a magical spot and well worth the little extra effort to get to.
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Catarata Tesoro Escondido.
Catarata Tesoro Escondido
The stats
Distance: 3.9km loop
Elevation gain: 180m
Difficulty: Easy, but not flat
What to expect - the trail conditions
The walk to each of the waterfalls is on a well maintained track for the most part. Reaching the base of the main falls, the biggest one, does require traversing a short stretch of boulders, but it’s fine if you take it slowly.
Reaching the very last waterfall requires a short walk through shallow water and then about a minute’s walk on a rougher dirt track.
Overall the trail does have a few ups and downs, but nothing overly strenuous, and far less hilly than say Catarata Del Toro.
Whilst the walk is self guided, there is a member of staff down by the three main waterfalls for most of the day. It’s discreet, so you don’t feel like someone is watching over you, but they’re there if there’s an emergency.
Starting the trail
You’ll start the trail by heading downhill on a gravel path, there’s a bit of loose stone here, but it’s not too slippery.
It’s worth noting that the weather at the start of the trail might not be what you experience once you arrive at the waterfalls, which was lucky for us because it was so windy at the top!
After you’ve descended on a gravel path for 150m, you’ll cross a wooden swing bridge and then have a brief climb on a series of stairs.
After 100m the gradient slackens and you’ll pass through a little mossy grotto, which was unexpected and very picturesque.
The track is a mix of little ups and downs, along with some flat track, and it’s generally pretty easy going.
After leaving the mossy walls and heading briefly downhill, you’ll arrive at the river and cross a second bridge. There is then a brief climb before you arrive out in the open again (500m into the track).
Continuing to Catarata Tesoro Escondido
You’ll now be walking along a grassy track with wildflowers on either side of you. You’re surrounded by mountains, although you can’t always see them as they’re often shrouded in cloud.
After walking for roughly 430m along the grass you’ll come to a rustic toilet, which is the last one before you descend to the waterfalls.
At the 1km mark you’ll come to a junction (which is signposted) and you can either head up to the mirador (lookout) or downhill to the waterfalls.
We could see where the lookout was, but it was a complete white out up there, so we decided to save it for the return - unfortunately it was no different then either, so we never did get to see the view, although we’ve heard it’s lovely. It’s a short but steep climb up.
When heading downhill to the falls, it’s mainly on stairs and you’ll reach another junction 150m later. You can go left to Catarata Tesoro Escondido (the biggest falls) or right to the other three.
We’d recommend checking out Catarata Tesoro Escondido first because you don’t need to come back to this junction after visiting the three smaller waterfalls, it’s quicker to make a loop and saves you going back on yourself.
Through the gorge to the biggest waterfall
From the junction you are just 400m from the foot of Catarata Tesoro Escondido. And it’s from this point that the walk gets much more beautiful.
You follow the river for much of the way and it starts to get more blue the closer you get to the falls.
This section of track is more rustic, with some rocky sections and also some rudimentary wooden boardwalk.
The river is crystal clear and full of giant boulders, which combined with the dense foliage on the cliff walls, make it feel lovely and wild.
Roughly 250m after the junction you’ll get your first glimpse of the falls and from here the track gets rockier.
There are only around 150m of rocks to negotiate (and a short section of scaffolded path) but it’s a bit slower and does require more careful footing.
The rocks weren’t overly damp, so for us, it wasn’t too slippery, but could be more so after heavy rain.
Your reward is to stand at the foot of this truly spectacular waterfall.
Swimming at Catarata Tesoro Escondido
In dry season, the water is a more of a thin ribbon than a powerful force to be reckoned with, but it’s no less beautiful.
The water is a deep blue, totally different to the next three waterfalls to come - which is another reason you should visit them all!
There are plenty of giant boulders around the edge of the pool where you can sit and admire the falls, or even have a picnic.
When it comes to swimming, be prepared for some cold water therapy! Because you’re up in the mountains the water is really cold, but it’s so invigorating!
Entering the pool involves walking over a few slippery rocks before it gets deep enough to swim, but it’s not too bad.
Considering the flow of the falls was not massive, I was surprised at the current in the water.
You could swim, but you could definitely feel the force in a lot of the pool - although there were sections you could avoid it if you wanted to.
Looking up at the falls from inside the blue water was very special, it’s such a majestic spot for a swim. I thought the day couldn’t get much better, until it did…
On to the cave falls
Before you leave Catarata Tesoro Escondido (just after the rocky section and close to the little wooden bench) you’ll see a few steps leading uphill into the forest.
This short one minute detour (50m) leads to a great lookout over the falls and it’s well worth popping up to see it before you head on to waterfall number two.
Once you’ve walked the 400m back to the junction, you’re then just 100m from the cave waterfall.
You’ll walk down an uneven staircase, but there’s a handrail there if needed, and then there are a few rocks to walk over to reach the pool.
It might not have the grandeur of Catarata Tesoro Escondido, but this cave waterfall is spectacular in its own right.
It’s basically in a mini canyon and the water is so blue, much bluer than Catarata Tesoro Escondido. It definitely had the wow factor.
To enter the pool you have to walk over a few rocks, but the water deepens quickly, so it doesn’t take long at all. The pool might be small, but it’s perfect for swimming.
There’s no current and no big rocks to bump into inside the pool. You can swim right up to the waterfall and under the overhang, which is dripping in moss and vines. i absolutely loved this spot and it was my favourite swim of the four.
On to waterfall three
Between waterfalls two and three, it’s just 100m. Again it’s on an uneven staircase, but there is a railing. The third waterfall is pretty, but it feels less secluded than the others.
The staircase walkway is prominent, whereas at the cave waterfall it’s there, but you notice it less as you’re swimming within the walls of the grotto.
Accessing the pool is similar to waterfall number two. There’s no current and it’s nice enough, but it’s not a must do.
If you think you might fatigue of swimming or admiring the falls, then have a quick peek at this one, but move straight on to waterfall four, because that’s one you do not want to miss!
On to Poza La Esmeralda
I feel like anywhere but this little region of Costa Rica, with its endless blue waterfalls, Poza La Esmeralda would be a star attraction. Yet here, it’s an unsung highlight, and that makes it all the more special.
Although a clear trail does take you there, it feels like the main track stops at waterfall three and we weren’t 100% sure there even was a fourth waterfall. We followed the path anyway and thank goodness we did. Because this one is magic.
From waterfall number three, you are 450m away. It’s still a well maintained track and it takes you into a wonderful patch of rainforest, and past a bigger waterfall in the distance (sadly this one isn’t accessible).
You’ll mainly be heading downhill on stairs and the track is generally in good condition. I loved this part of the forest and we were even lucky enough to spot a hummingbird high in the trees.
You’ll emerge from the rainforest into the gorge. Your first sight of the turquoise water backed by the foliage covered cliff walls will take your breath away.
This whole walk is stunning, so it’s hard to know why this particular area struck me so much, but it felt like a lost paradise. The kind of place you hope to find in somewhere like Costa Rica, but it doesn’t always happen.
There’s no infrastructure and despite the fact we were visiting at 3pm in the afternoon in peak season, there wasn’t another soul around. It’s the stuff dreams are made of.
And this was before I even set eyes on the waterfall.
Arriving at Poza La Esmeralda
To reach Poza La Esmeralda, from the end of the staircase, you need to turn left and head upstream through the water. There are rocks, but not enough to use as stepping stones. I took my shoes off and though it’s a little uncomfortable underfoot, it was preferable to walking back with fully soaked boots!
Only a few minutes of the walk to the pool is in the water before you can cut up onto the river bank on the opposite side of the stream. The water was calm and fairly shallow, well below knee height (in dry season).
You can then walk up the dirt ‘path’ on the other side of the river, which is rustic, but not too challenging. It’s a little muddy, but oh so worth it.
You’ll then be standing at a rocky area above the falls.
The waterfall is small, more of a cascade than a proper waterfall, but the water colour and setting is next level.
It is one of those places where you can’t help but keep uttering ‘wow’ every few minutes. I took a video of the water on my phone and I knew instantly people wouldn’t think it was real!
It’s a unique shade of blue that I’ve not seen anywhere else.
Swimming at Poza La Esmeralda
The pool is most easily accessed by heading down to the right of the rocky area the dirt track leads you up to. You have to walk carefully down the rocks and then you can drop down into the pool.
It’s not difficult, but is a touch slippery, so I just lowered myself down on my bum to make sure I didn’t slip.
The pool is a decent size and utterly glorious, but the current is surprisingly strong. Stronger than at Catarata Tesoro Escondido, which doesn’t give you much room to swim.
However, there’s plenty of space to bob around, or sit on the boulders in the water.
Sitting in the pool and staring up at the mossy lush surroundings is something I won’t forget in a hurry. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.
I have no idea how this is not one of Costa Rica’s most famous spots, but I’m not complaining that we got it to ourselves for the whole afternoon!
When you’re ready to leave, you retrace your steps back into the forest and start heading uphill. However when you see the trail split, you don’t go back the way you came, but instead head left. You’ll come out at the open grassy area (near the wildflower lined path) after 200m.
You then turn left to retrace your steps back to the car park, which is just 750m away.
It’s mainly flat or downhill, so it’s an easy finish to one of the most magical walks in Bajos Del Toro.
The best time to visit Catarata Tesoro Escondido
Bajos Del Toro has not yet made it onto the radar of many international travellers - but this will likely change over time. It. is however popular with Costa Ricans, and as it’s day trippable from San Jose, weekends can get busy.
Catarata Tesoro Escondido is not yet one of the most popular falls here, but avoiding weekends will make it much more likely you’ll get the whole place to yourself.
We visited on a weekday, arriving a little after midday and leaving after 4pm. It was such a refreshing change from the more popular falls where we had to arrive at opening time!
In terms of seasons, whilst the waterfalls will be fuller in the rainy season, if it’s been too wet, they can lose their blue colour.
Catarata Tesoro Escondido opening hours and entry fees
The opening times seem to vary from the waterfall’s Facebook page to the Google listing, but loosely it seems to open daily at 8am and shut between 2 and 4pm depending on the day.
Having said that, we were there until after 4pm and we were never asked to leave. As with most places we visited in Costa Rica, the exit times seem flexible.
The entry fee for non residents is 7500 colones (approx USD $13.40). It’s still quite a small enterprise, so we took cash. There may have been a credit card machine, but it’s probably easiest to have cash with you.
Getting to Catarata Tesoro Escondido
Catarata Tesoro Escondido is located in the centre of Bajos Del Toro, it’s marked on Google maps.
The drive is roughly 66km and 2 hours from San Jose. There are some very steep and windy mountain roads, with no safety barriers, so drive slowly - you pretty much have to anyway due to the gradient! There are many potholes along the way.
It’s a little further from La Fortuna, but a slightly quicker drive, the roads are not steep and there are less potholes (but still plenty as you arrive at or leave Bajos).
Both these roads are paved and you do not need a 4WD, we did it once in an old 4WD and once in a small Yaris and it was actually slightly easier in the newer Yaris!
It’s an area where it’s much easier to have a rental car as public transport is limited.
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