First things first: the Kandy to Ella train is magnificent. We're not about to say that it is overrated or anything so you can breathe a sigh of relief. However, when you are embarking on one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, which has become an Instagram sensation, it only means one thing: people.
Lots of people.
Of course, it's not just tourists, it's also a popular mode of transport for locals. It's not hard to see why it's such a popular journey. About an hour out of Kandy you'll begin entering tea country. The landscape changes from palm jungle to incredibly steep hills covered in tea bushes with huge open vistas - as long as you're sitting on the right side of the train - but more on that later.
We travelled to Sri Lanka for five weeks in low season, where often we were the only people staying in the guest houses, so were shocked when we saw how crowded the train was.
But don't worry, we are about to share everything we learnt on taking this train journey on three separate stages. We hope it helps you get even more out of one of the most magical train journeys in the world.
What is the Kandy to Ella train?
The Kandy to Ella train actually starts in Colombo, but the highlights are the journey from Kandy to Ella and takes about 9-10 hours in total (the timetables will try to tell you that it is a 6 hour journey!). It stops at Hill Country towns like Nuwara Eliya and Haputale, places we highly recommend visiting. You can hop off at any point and explore towns, tea plantations, waterfalls and more.
It definitely is one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. However, there are a few things that people may not tell you about this famous train ride!
Here are 8 things no one tells you about the Kandy to Ella train
1. It matters which side of the train you sit on
Before taking this train we didn't realise that one side of the train is significantly more scenic than the other on the leg between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya.
You really want to be on the right side of the train for this journey.
We started the left and for many hours you will mainly see tall grass and a cliff. Whereas the other side are seeing glorious tea plantations and huge open views.
From Nuwara Eliya to Ella the difference is not as marked but would recommend you sit on the left side.
2. You will share the open door
Everything you’ve probably seen suggests that the train is empty with hardly anyone else there, meaning you can sit by the open door and admire the views.
The reality is everyone loves being by the open door way for the stunning views, none more so than the locals.
We were joined by no less than six locals on our first journey who sat next to us and hovered in front and over us, so closely that at any one time I was touching five other people.
On the second time we took the train the same happened but with less people, two to four. It's still a great experience but not as relaxing as having a bit of personal space.
3. Only get the express trains
We made the mistake of getting one of the slow (goods) trains when the timing better suited us. This was a huge mistake.
They are far busier than the express trains and we got neither a seat nor doorway in second or third class.
It was packed to the rafters, much like a London tube, making the journey really unenjoyable.
4. You don't need to turn up really early for the train
We read a few articles that suggested you had to be at the station anywhere between one and two hours in advance.
Our reality has been that the train was delayed for a minimum of one hour on each leg we took.
Even if it wasn't late there is still no point in turning up very early, there is no queuing system so it won't secure you a great spot. Save yourself the lengthy sit at the platform and enjoy another cuppa at your guest house.
5. Get the second class carriage that borders the third class carriage (the one nearest the back)
Just trust us on this one, it's a great place to be.
Now this goes against everything we experienced on Indian trains when the third class carriages were always packed. We might have got lucky, but on each train journey we could not get anywhere near a seat in second class but third class had bags of room!
The seats are slightly longer bench style, rather than the individual seats in groups of two in second class, but they are still comfortable. Whilst hanging out the train is by far our preferred option, if it starts raining or you get a numb bum it's nice to have a seat to fall back on.
If you have a second class ticket and you nab a seat there great, but if not being able to get into the third class carriage gives you another option.
6. Second class reserved and second class unreserved are of course different
You cannot buy a second class reserved seat at the train station on the day of travel. You must book in advance.
The ticket you are buying in second class on the day of travel at the train station is second class unreserved. These tickets do not guarantee you a seat, as mentioned we never got one.
If you know your dates and you want to book in advance, but are unable to go to the station, various tour operators can book for you for a fee.
When we did a quick check you are paying many times the price of the original ticket, but they are so cheap anyway it really isn't so bad if you want a reserved seat.
7. Don't even think about getting a train on the weekend
Midday and the weekends are by far the busiest times for the trains. It is not only when tourists jump onboard, but it is also when Sri Lankans tend to travel as well.
This means it can get very crowded in the unreserved section.
Unless you reserve a seat in advance - which requires a fair bit of notice according to Seat 61 (something our happy go lucky take each day as it comes current mode of travel did not allow) - you are even less likely to score a seat or a doorway than any other time.
If you have no choice then of course go for it, but try to go either very early or late in the day as it's these seem to be quieter. But if you have any flexibility it is far quieter mid week.
8. You can buy your Kandy to Ella Train Tickets in advance
You shouldn't have a problem buying tickets at the train station (even on the same day). However, you will only be able to get Second Class Unreserved or Third Class (neither will guarantee a seat).
If you want a reserved seat in First or Second Class, then click here to book your tickets in advance.
Note: you must book 32 days in advance for this website to process your purchase and ensure it can get the tickets when Sri Lankan railways put them on sale (30 days in advance).
You will then be able to pick up your tickets from their office in Colombo or delivered to your hotel.
How to plan your trip on the Kandy to Ella Train
How much do Kandy to Ella train tickets cost?
Tickets for the Kandy to Ella train cost between 300 rupees ($1 USD) at the cheapest to 3,000 ($10 USD) at the most expensive, making it incredibly cheap for one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world.
Tickets for the Kandy to Ella train cost:
First class: 3,000 rupees ($10 USD)
Second class: 600 rupees ($2 USD)
Third class: 300 rupees ($1 USD)
Kandy to Ella Train Travel Schedule
The timetable for the Kandy to Ella train should only be used as a guide as it is ALWAYS late, especially the further down the line you go. You can check the latest version with this link.
There are five trains a day that go from Colombo to Kandy, but two of them skip Kandy.
We'd advise getting the 8.50am from Kandy as this will have the least amount of tourist on board.
If you are hopping on at Hatton (Adam's Peak), Nanuoya (Nuwara Eliya) or Haputale, you'll have four trains to choose from, running between 7am and 4pm (depending on which train station you get on at). There is also a night mail train that runs in the middle of the night, but obviously no views makes this one a losing option.
Where does the train from Kandy to Ella stop?
The Kandy to Ella train stops at:
Colombo Fort
Peradeniya
Kandy
Hatton (Adam's Peak)
Nanuoya (Nuwara Eliaya)
Haputale
Ella
Badulla
You don’t have to go from Kandy to Ella in one go and we chose to stop in two places. We really enjoyed our stay at Nuwara Eliya despite constant rain and Haputale was one of our favourite places in Sri Lanka.
Where to sit on the Kandy to Ella Train
It pays to have a plan for this train, otherwise you'll be stuck facing a cliff for a lot of the trip!
For the first section (Kandy to Nuwara Eliya), sit on the right side of the train.
As you walk in Kandy Railway station, head to the far right (making sure you're on the right hand version of platform 2). This will ensure you get those epic views.
At Nuwara Eliya, hop to the left hand side. This is where the close up tea plantations change to huge, wide open landscape.
How long is the train ride from Kandy to Ella?
The train ride from Kandy to Ella takes at least 9 - 10 hours. Ignore the timetables, this train will take longer than you think (he timetable claims the journey will take 7 - 8 hours).
For this reason, we'd recommend stopping along the way to break up the journey. Whilst it is picturesque, the train isn't luxurious or particularly comfortable.
This why we suggest taking.....
Is Kandy or Ella better?
We preferred Ella. It is a quieter town in the Hill Country with a lot more to do. Kandy isn’t a bad place to visit, but it is a lot more congested and didn’t quite have the start attractions that Ella did.
Kandy to Ella Train Map
The Kandy to Ella train map is below and shows the stops you can make along the journey. We chose to break the journey, stopping at Nuwara Eliya and Haputale to experience some of the Hill Country away from the crowds. Haputale in particular was about as non-touristy as the Hill Country gets!
The Kandy to Nuwara Eliya Train
Kandy to Nuwara Eliya
The Kandy to Nuwara Eliya section is one of the most picturesque train journeys in the world.
Plan it right (as we described above) and it will be one of the highlights of your trip.
There's only three trains a day (one at 3.30am!). Realistically you can get either the 8.50 or 11.10 to Nuwara Eliya.
Just like if you wanted to go from Kandy to Ella, you can click here to book your tickets in advance. Tickets need to be purchased 32 days in advanced
How long is the train from Kandy to Nuwara Eliya?
Whilst the time table states that the journey should take just under four hours, it took us 5 hours. Clearly timekeeping isn’t a priority on the trains in Sri Lanka!
How long is the train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella?
The journey from Nuwara Eliya to Ella takes about 4-5 hours. Whilst the timetable says it will be 3-4, this is unlikely to happen as the train is always slow.
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Have you taken the glorious Kandy to Ella train? How was your experience? Let us know in the comments below.
