If you love the outdoors, Costa Rica is one of the best holiday destinations on earth. The scenery is phenomenal, there’s incredible wildlife around every corner and so many of the places that feel truly wild are actually very accessible.
Although we’ve focussed this itinerary predominantly around waterfalls and wild swimming, we’ve also included hot springs, volcano hiking, sloth watching and a night tour for a more rounded trip.
Here’s the best 7 day Costa Rica itinerary for waterfall lovers.
7 day Costa Rica Itinerary
You can start from either of Costa Rica’s main international airports
This itinerary works for anybody flying into and out of either San Jose airport or Liberia airport. We’ve started it at San Jose simply because it’s the most common entry point to Costa Rica, but if you’re flying into Liberia it works just as well. Just reverse it so you start with the activities in Liberia first.
You will need a rental car to complete this itinerary within 7 days and to be honest, even if you have longer, if you don’t have a car, you’ll struggle to reach some of these spots without expensive tours or taxis.
Before hiring a car read this guide about a common rental car scam and here’s some tips for driving in Costa Rica.
It’s also worth noting this itinerary is for a full 7 days in country. If you have less than this due to flights you’ll need to cull a couple of sections : )
A dream 7 day Costa Rica itinerary for waterfall lovers
Day one - Bajos Del Toro
Stop one - Poas Volcano
Distance from San Jose: 49km, 1 hour 20 minutes
If you’re full of energy starting your holiday you can make a detour to Poas Volcano on the way to Bajos del Toro. It does add on 1 hour 20 minutes more to your journey, so it’s probably only worth it if you haven’t seen a volcano before, but we wanted to include it as it is possible with an early start!
Although Poas Volcano is very much a sleeping giant, it’s currently ‘muy tranquilo’ as the Costa Ricans would say, it’s still a fun place to visit.
Whilst there’s not much in the way of volcanic activity to see, the view of the volcanic crater is still incredible and the fact it isn’t very active at the moment does mean you no longer need to take a guided tour or have a 20 minute maximum stay.
The walk to reach the viewpoint is just 700m each way and though it goes gently uphill, it’s an easy stroll. You could lengthen the walk by adding on the iridescent blue crater lake, Lake Botos.
You do have to book tickets in advance to visit, which you can do on the government website. Pick your time slot based on the weather forecast, more on that, prices and everything else you need to know in our detailed guide to Poas Volcano.
Stop two - Catarata Tesoro Escondido
Distance from San Jose: 66km, 1 hour 35 minutes
Distance from Poas Volcano: 66km, 1 hour 45 minutes
Catarata Tesoro Escondido Trail is one of the most spectacular waterfall walks in Costa Rica, with four different blue waterfalls you can swim in. Each has something different to offer, from a huge waterfall that cascades over a towering cliff wall, to a smaller cave like waterfall, and then the fairytale like one that almost nobody visits.
It’s hidden in a gorge at the far end of the track and as you emerge from the forest into the gorge; it’s like you’ve stepped into the Garden of Eden.
It’s completely untouched, with dazzling blue water and mossy walls that barely have an inch of space not covered by dense foliage. It’s so blue that I know people will assume it’s been photoshopped.
If you walk the full loop it’s 3.9km and there is a small amount of uphill involved. The paths are generally good, but for full trail details see our Catarata Tesoro Escondido guide.
The road to Bajos del Toro
Just a quick note on the road into Bajos del Toro when coming from San Jose, or Poas Volcano. It is a steep windy mountainous road, however, though there are potholes, the road is paved and suitable for any car. We’ve driven it many times including in a small Yaris and it was fine.
The road isn’t narrow, so it’s not one of those ones where you feel like you might career off a cliff. I’d say it’s fine unless you are a particularly nervy driver and you have to drive slowly anyway because it’s so steep.
Day two - Bajos Del Toro
Stop one - Blue Falls
The series of turquoise waterfalls that make up Blue Falls are located in a pristine patch of rainforest, creating some of the most magical scenes in the country.
At first we were disappointed when the predicted sunny weather didn’t happen for us, but in fact the cloud and mist made for one of the most atmospheric walks we’ve done.
It’s pretty mind boggling to me that it still remains something of an unknown with international travellers.
The walk between the waterfalls is generally on good paths, but for one of the waterfalls which has a more rustic track - which you could skip if you wanted an easier walk. There are some short hills or staircases, but it’s by no means a hard walk.
The full loop is 6.3km, but you can knock over 1.5km off this if you don’t want to do the rustic waterfall track. Even visiting the two main waterfalls would be worth the fee and more.
You can read all the details including the cost of a guide (which is mandatory) in our Blue Falls article.
Stop two - Catarata del Toro
Catarata Del Toro is one of the most impressive waterfalls in Costa Rica. It thunders into an extinct volcano and then down through a narrow canyon.
It doesn’t have the blue water you’ll find at many of the other waterfalls in the area, however, what it lacks in water colour, it makes up for with sheer power and majesty.
Although reaching the base of the falls does require a steep hike down, and then back up, it was actually easier than I was expecting it to be and it’s all on well maintained staircases. The total walk is 2.7km.
If you visit Catarata del Toro on the same day as Blue Falls you get a discount, so this entire day’s waterfall chasing will only set you back USD $25, a complete bargain by Costa Rican standards.
An alternative
There’s one waterfall that we didn’t want to include as the main stop because the walk is harder and won’t be for everyone, but if you’re looking for an adventure, this might just be your favourite of all the waterfalls on this itinerary.
Located deep in a pristine cloud forest lies Catarata Vuelta del Cañon, one of the most atmospheric waterfalls in all of Costa Rica. With towering mossy walls and turquoise water, this double drop waterfall has the wow factor. It feels like you’ve stepped onto a movie set.
Reaching it requires a 10km return hike and several river crossings, but the reward is worth the effort. You can read more about the trail and the waterfall here.
Where to stay in Bajos del Toro
El Silencio Lodge & Spa
Bajos del Toro is still developing when it comes to tourism. Most visitors are San Jose locals who predominantly day trip on weekends. There is accomodation available in the village, but it’s sparse and we didn’t love either place we stayed, though one was pretty good, which is the one we’re recommending below.
If you have a big budget there’s no doubt you should go for El Silencio Lodge & Spa because it’s absolutely gorgeous (we ate there twice). Situated in the cloud forest by a stream, it’s the perfect place to retreat inbetween visiting the waterfalls. However, it does have a big price tag.
Check out the latest prices & reviews on:
We stayed at this tiny home which was cute and comfortable, but we had issues with the hot water and internet. It was also quite noisy - not from traffic as there’s none - but from things falling on the roof all night long! It could be a fabulous place to stay but it does need a little refining.
Day three - Bajos del Toro to La Fortuna
Stop one: Poza Celestes (Bajos del Toro)
Before heading on to La Fortuna, there are a couple of unmissable stops left in Bajos del Toro. The first is Pozas Celestes, which is like about as picture perfect a swimming hole as you’re ever likely to find.
The turquoise water is surrounded by silvery cliff walls and dense jungle.
When swimming in the pool, we even got to watch shimmering Blue Morpho butterflies flit between the trees and across the water. To say it was a magical morning is an understatement, this is a little patch of paradise.
From the parking area you take a shuttle bus (included in the entry fee) a few minutes down the road to the trailhead. The walk from the drop off point is only around 10 minutes and it’s easy and very scenic. The path is pretty good, but there’s a steep staircase to start with. You can read more in our Poza Celestes guide.
Stop two - Rio Agrio (Bajos del Toro)
Just down the road from Poza Celestes and owned by the same people (there’s a discount when visiting both) is Rio Agrio - a gorgeous waterfall with wild jungle vibes.
The walk to reach it is unlike any other in Bajos Del Toro. You’ll head through a huge fern covered gorge, which if you’re lucky enough to visit on a misty day, really feels like you’ve strayed into Jurassic Park. Ironic given it’s next door to Dinoland!
It’s a pretty easy 2.3km return walk with well maintained paths and little in the way of hilly terrain.
Given it’s fed by the most acidic river in Costa Rica, you can’t swim here, but our first stop more than makes up for that. For entry fees and everything else you need to know about Rio Agrio, check out this guide.
Stop three: La Fortuna hot springs
Distance from Bajos del Toro: 74km, 1 hour 30 minutes
The drive over to La Fortuna is on a less steep road than the one from San Jose, there are some potholes again, but generally it’s pretty good. When it comes to your first activity in La Fortuna, there are two great options.
The first is the free hot springs, well it’s more of a hot river really and very lovely (providing you move away from the busiest section, more on that here) and the second is any one of the paid hot spring complexes.
Personally I’ve been to Baldi hot springs which were lovely, though Tabacon is more popular lately. There are so many to choose from so it really depends how much you want to spend and how luxurious you want it to be.
We’d recommend going in the evening because the air temperature is usually so hot in La Fortuna that it’s not actually relaxing to be in a hot spring in the day time!
If you opt for the free hot spring, bring a light source and if that’s candles, please don’t leave them (or the wax) on the rocks!
Day four - La Fortuna
Stop one: La Fortuna Waterfall
La Fortuna Waterfall is spectacular. The falls create an incredible mass of white water, the power of which is mesmerising to watch.
The waterfall cascades over a towering moss covered cliff wall, which feels truly wild. However, you need to get here at opening time (currently 7am) to stand a chance of seeing it without a huge crowd (and I mean huge!).
Surprisingly, given its power, you are actually allowed to swim in the pool at the base - although I use the term swim loosely because it felt like a rough ocean when I was in there, and you couldn’t stray too far from the rocks.
However, there’s a sensational turquoise swimming area just a minute’s walk from the falls, which is what we’d recommend instead.
Walking to the falls requires negotiating 600m of steep stairs, but the steps are very well maintained and there are handrails. You can read more in our La Fortuna Waterfall guide.
Stop two: Mirador El Silencio
Mirador el Silencio offers one of the best views of Arenal Volcano, as well as our favourite overall hiking trail in the area.
You’ll walk through primary rainforest teeming with birdlife, and emerge from under the canopy to hike up a section of old lava flow, which takes you to the most incredible volcano view. Arenal looms over a mass of jagged volcanic rock while toucans and Swallow-tailed kites soar overhead.
It’s surprisingly the cheapest of the major Arenal hiking trails, yet easily the best, and the quietest! Other possibilities are Arenal 1968 and the Arenal National Park, but trust us, the best is Mirador el Silencio.
Stop 3: Sloth watching
Although we’d normally put a wildlife watching activity in the morning, when it comes to sloth watching we only ever did it in the afternoon and we always got lucky.
As with the hot springs, you have a couple of options. We found an amazing free reserve just outside of town where you can see them, though sadly since publishing our guide they’ve closed some of it off. However, there is still a section open worth looking at.
If you don’t get lucky, or want to do one of the designated sloth watching trails, you are almost guaranteed to see one on the Bogarin Trail, even without a guide.
We saw three sloths and the walk was both very easy, pretty and shady - a winning combination! You can read how to improve your sloth watching chances in this guide.
Where to stay in La Fortuna
Arenal Observatory Lodge
The Arenal Observatory is a pretty special place. The lodge has incredible views of the iconic Arenal Volcano - even from the rooms! The rooms are clean, comfortable and well away from the hustle and bustle of La Fortuna town.
It’s surrounded by nearly 900 acres of privately managed rainforest, there are walking trails and even a bird sanctuary on site.
Check the latest prices & availability on:
Apartamento Equipados RyA del Volcan
For those looking for a comfortable stay in a central location, this apartment is a great choice. Apartamento Equipados RyA del Volcan is a short walk from the centre of La Fortuna, so you don’t have to worry about finding parking or paying for a taxi every time you go out for a meal.
The rooms are stylishly furnished, clean and have a small living area and kitchen for the times you don’t fancy eating out.
Check the latest prices & availability on:
Day five - Rio Celeste
Stop one - Rio Celeste swimming
Distance from La Fortuna: 70km, 1 hour 25 minutes
Though you can no longer swim at Rio Celeste Waterfall, you can still swim in that same gatorade blue water. Swimming through water so blue that it looks like it came from a glacier while toucans fly overhead really is a magical experience.
There are a couple of great easy to access options which you can pair with a visit to the waterfall (stop two). As long as there hasn’t been too much recent rain, which causes strong currents, the swimming is leisurely and a real delight.
We have detailed our favourite swimming spots in this post and note that none are anywhere along the Rio Celeste Waterfall trail, where swimming is prohibited.
Stop two - Rio Celeste Waterfall
No waterfall itinerary for Costa Rica would be complete without the most famous falls of them all: Rio Celeste. The water is the most exquisite shade of blue, a truly jaw-dropping sight. The only disappointment is that you can no longer swim there.
The walk to the waterfall is very pretty and well maintained all the way to the falls. The last part of the trail is a set of steep stairs, but there are handrails if needed. If you only want to see the falls, the walk is 3.2km return, but if you want to see more blue pools and great scenery then you can walk beyond the waterfall for a further 1.2km each way.
The first time we visited Rio Celeste, it was still a hidden gem and we were the only ones there and swimming was permitted. It’s since become one of Costa Rica’s most well known waterfalls, so you’ll want to read this guide to make sure you can enjoy it without the crowds.
Stop three - Frog’s Paradise night tour
Distance from Rio Celeste Waterfall: 11km, 20 minutes
If you’re looking for an amazing night walk away from the crowds, this is it. Especially if you’re keen to see some of Costa Rica’s delightfully exotic looking frogs!
You’ll wander through a beautiful patch of secondary rainforest, where the only sounds are from the Howler monkeys and cicadas overhead. If you turn your torch off, the only light is that from the fireflies that glow like embers as they float between the trees.
We spotted six different types of frog, sloths, a kinkajou, toucans, snakes, lizards and more during a very dry spell. If you visit during a wetter period, you are likely to see more much, including up to 22 species of frog.
You can read our full review here (unsponsored).
Where to stay near Rio Celeste
Onca Treehouses
Although you could easily do Rio Celeste as a day trip from La Fortuna, you’re around halfway to Liberia at Rio Celeste, so you save a lot of driving by staying in the area. It’s also nicer to do a night tour and not have to worry about driving quite a long way back in the dark.
We stayed at Onca Treehouses but If we had the budget we would have stayed at the Rio Celeste Hideaway Hotel, not only does it have private river access, but also the most amazing rooms set in the forest. It’s won loads of awards and the rooms have jungle vibes. It also has the best restaurant in the area.
Day six - Liberia
Stop one - Llanos de Cortes
Distance from Rio Celeste: 69km, 1 hour
Llanos de Cortes is a beauty and worth making an early start for (do not visit late morning when the crowds make it feel like a resort swimming pool). Come the moment it opens, walk the short five minute trail to the ‘beach’ and dip your toes in its warm tropical water. Yes warm, quite the opposite of the cloud forest waterfalls at the start of this itinerary!
The spray of the falls creates constant rainbows and the water is clear and calm. If you’re lucky the resident Howler monkeys will serenade you as you swim : )
All the details on price, opening times and a scam you want to avoid, are in this guide.
Stop two - Rincon de la Vieja hot springs
Distance from Llanos de Cortes: 50km, 1 hour
Distance to Liberia: 25km, 45 minutes
The Rincon de la Vieja forest hot springs are one of the most underrated gems in Costa Rica. The easy 3.2km (each way) trail takes you past two waterfalls you can swim in before finishing at the incredible blue hot springs. They are the real deal. Beautiful blue pools properly out in nature, not a slab of concrete or artificial staircase in sight.
We really enjoyed the hot springs in La Fortuna, but these ones really are on another level. In the late afternoon the pools fall into shadow, so you can soak without being subjected to the full intensity of the sun. The springs are hot but not boiling, so it’s pretty much the perfect bathing experience.
Note that the walk is easy in the dry season when water levels are low, but if you’re visiting in the wet season or just after, the river crossings will be harder. Full details are in our Sector Santa Maria hot springs guide.
Day seven - Liberia
This is quite an action packed day, so if you’re travelling all the way back to San Jose you will probably have to pick one of the two stops. If this is the case swap the one you don’t choose for your last day with Llanos de Cortes, because although that’s a beautiful waterfall, both La Leona and Poza los Coyotes are even more special.
Stop one - La Leona Waterfall
Distance from Liberia: 15km, 25 minutes
If you’re looking for one of Costa Rica’s best adventure hikes, and one of its most spectacular waterfalls, this is it. La Leona Waterfall is incredible. It flows into a deep orange canyon, forming a stunning blue swimming hole at the base.
The walk to get there involves traversing jaw-dropping blue rivers, climbing small ladders and then swimming using a rope to fight the current, before you’ll finally reach the foot of the canyon waterfall itself.
As you have to visit with a guide, you’ll be in good hands, and if there are any bits that you’re unsure about, they will be able to help. A trip to La Leona might just be your most memorable Costa Rican experience.
You can read all the details in our La Leona hike guide.
Stop two - Poza los Coyotes
Distance from La Leona Waterfall: 7.5km, 15 minutes
Distance to Liberia: 15km, 20 minutes
Distance to San Jose: 225km, 3 hours 45 minutes
If there’s a better way of spending USD $4 in Costa Rica, then we haven’t found it yet. Poza Los Coyotes is simply jaw dropping; you can swim in vivid blue water right through an incredible canyon and you don’t need a guide to do it!
But that’s not all that’s on offer here, there are endless swimming opportunities and even tyres you can rent for less than USD $2, allowing you to create your own lazy river experience.
But this one is better than any waterpark because you’re out in nature, and you can drift downstream to the sounds of Howler monkeys and hummingbirds flitting between the trees.
However, it’s not all about the money as Poza Los Coyotes would be one of the best experiences in Costa Rica if it were five times the price.
The walk between the swimming holes is generally easy with good paths and almost entirely flat. It gets a little trickier if you want to walk all the way up to the waterfall at one end, but you don’t have to do that to see the best of the site. You can read all the details in our Poza los Coyotes guide.
An alternative - if you are flying out of Liberia (not suitable for flying out of San Jose)
Distance to Liberia: 57km, 1 hour 30 minutes via unpaved roads
El Santuario slot canyon is wild, and the last part of the walk to get close to the waterfall is slippery. But your reward is a spectacular canyon waterfall and if you’re lucky some ethereal light rays to complete the picture perfect scene.
Getting close to the waterfall won’t be for everyone due to the slippery rocks and fast flowing water, but you can get to the main chamber easily enough.
More details on how to visit are in our guide to El Santuario.
Where to stay in Liberia
Casa Buda 2 apartment
We stayed in the Casa Buda 2 apartment, which is a good option if you’d like a house rather than a hotel. There are two bedrooms with good beds and a full kitchen. There’s also a washing machine. The shower has hot water, but fairly low pressure, which is standard for Costa Rica. The internet was good and it was close to lots of amenities. Soundproofing is not great, which again we found to be across the board in Costa Rica.
You can check out the reviews and prices on:
Hilton Garden Inn
If you’d prefer a hotel, the Hilton is a good bet. It’s around a 15 minute drive from the city centre (a few minutes from our favourite coffee shop in the area, Monk and Capra). Rooms are spacious and get well reviewed for having comfy beds.
You can check out the reviews and prices on:
A note on crowds in Costa Rica
Costa Rica is a hugely popular destination and some of the sites on this list become very crowded. We have tried to put the most busy spots as the first activity of the day where possible so you can go when things open to miss the crowds. There’s only one spot where it simply wouldn’t fit into the itinerary without moving it to the afternoon (Poza los Coyotes). Other spots that are in the afternoon slots are there because they were fine to visit then and not crowded.
Each individual article we have linked in this guide offer more insight into crowds and the best time to visit, so if you are crowd averse it’s worth reading up on timings.
Important info on visiting Costa Rica
The best time to visit
As Costa Rica is a tropical destination, the waterfalls flow reasonably well throughout the year. However, after a storm the blue water of icons such as Rio Celeste can go from stunningly turquoise to a sludgy brown…
The dry season is generally the best time to visit Costa Rica, and this is between December and April. It does rain during this time, but generally far less than the rainy season. However, this is also the busiest time of year and prices can reach eye watering levels for car rental and accommodation.
Visiting in the shoulder season of April (after Easter) and May is a good compromise for decent weather and lower prices.
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