Swimming in a crystal clear pool beneath a towering volcano is not something I’ll forget in a hurry. When it comes to unique swimming holes, Wilkies Pools are a hard spot to beat.
Even if you don’t want to take the plunge, a visit here is a must when visiting Taranaki. The walk to reach the pools is easy and takes you through a patch of gnarled and mossy goblin forest.
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting the pools, including which spots are the best and details on the loop track.
Wilkies Pools Walk
The stats
Distance: 2.5km loop (or a 2.3km return along the shortest route)
Elevation gained: 120m
Difficulty: Easy
To circuit or not to circuit
To get to Wilkies Pools you can either take a direct return route, or a varied scenic loop. We’d recommend the circuit as it’s not much longer, and offers the chance to see some pretty cascades.
One side of the circuit has a significantly more manicured track than the other. The clockwise/western route (taking a left at the first junction) has a metal grate the whole way along, preventing any muddy sections and providing a smooth surface all the way to the pools. It also has a very gradual incline, making it the easier route of the two. If you want a smooth path all the way, go and return along this side of the loop.
If you don’t mind an uneven surface then definitely complete the whole loop so you get to experience more of this beautiful area. The anti-clockwise/eastern section (the trail turning right at the first junction) has a few staircases and some rock hopping, as well as short muddy patches. It’s by no means difficult, but it’s not smooth and manicured.
The first 500m of both trails are along the same track.
Starting the trail: heading clockwise/the western route
The entire route to the pools heading in this direction is either on a gravel track or a smooth metal grating, pretty much like boardwalk. The trail is either flat or very gradually uphill.
It takes you through a beautiful section of goblin forest, which looks like something out of a fairytale.
The twisted branches of the kamahi trees reach like hands towards the sky and the dense covering of moss gives the forest an enchanted feel. It’s incredibly atmospheric and a true delight to pass through.
As you get closer to the pools you’ll emerge from the forest and hopefully, conditions permitting, get your first view of Mount Taranaki.
It’s a spectacular sight and we were especially lucky to visit in early spring when the cone was covered in a thick layer of snow.
You’ll soon come to a bridge and see Wilkies Pools ahead of you. Depending on recent rainfall they will be roaring waterfalls, or more gentle cascades that flow into a series of small plunge pools.
Getting into the pools involves a little scrambling, which we’ll cover in the swimming holes section below.
The anti-clockwise/eastern side of the loop
The other side of the loop is a more rustic affair, with little in the way of boardwalk (until you reach the bit where the trails merge again).
It can be a little waterlogged and muddy but nothing major, just make sure you have decent shoes if walking after heavy rain.
I would have named this part of the track “The Cascades Trail”. You will pass so many gorgeous cascades and small waterfalls on this section, and the rushing water adds to the birdsong for the perfect backdrop to the walk.
At one point the trail passes straight through a small waterfall, but there are handily placed rocks to use as stepping stones.
The path has some stairs and tree roots to contend with, but it’s still an easy track and the cascades mean it’s well worth that very small amount of extra effort.
When you pop out of the forest you’ll come to a stream crossing (again there are rocks for stepping stones) and a wonderful view of the volcano. You can get a lovely shot of the rocky stream with Mount Taranaki behind.
The only time you might have any trouble rock hopping this bit is after very heavy rain, but you could check with the visitor centre in advance to make sure it’s not flooded.
You’ll then quickly come to the trail junction and the last 500m of the track is along the path you have already walked, through the goblin forest.
The swimming holes
The swimming holes are basically a series of plunge pools of varying size and depth. We estimated there were five you could easily access and two really stand out from the rest.
The pools have small waterfalls flowing into them which can become more powerful after heavy rain.
The water is crystal clear and pretty icy throughout the year. When I swam in spring, it was basically like an ice bath, but it really made you feel alive!
If you don’t like scrambling, then the first pool is going to be the best for you because you only have to walk over a few rocks.
If you don’t mind a little easy scrambling, then head further up the hill for the best pools. The track is relatively steep, but it has an abundance of hand and foot holds that make it quite straightforward.
Just take care on the wet bits, which can be a little slippery (they are best to avoid if you can).
The best pool in my opinion is at the top, not so much for the pool itself, but because it is the only one with a volcano view - there’s actually a tiny one just above it, but it’s not really big enough to take a dip.
Scrambling up takes around five minutes and then you can just gently slide down the rock into the water. It’s not that deep, but more than deep enough for an icy plunge pool experience.
The next best pool is the one which has three small waterfalls running into it; it’s incredibly picturesque and also the deepest of the pools.
It’s around halfway up the scramble and again you can just walk into the pool down a little slope.
It’s quite rocky in the water at first, but then you get into the deeper section and it’s much better underfoot.
For me, if you don’t have a clear day and can’t see Mount Taranaki, then this lower pool is by far the most beautiful pool and felt pretty magical.
The best time to visit Wilkies Pools
The pools are great at any time of day, but if you’re visiting in peak season then it can get busy. You’d want to visit early or late to make sure you get the best spots to yourself.
Outside of peak season it was very quiet. Otherwise visiting on a clear day when you can see the volcano adds a little magic, but it’s worth coming regardless, as it’s a great spot in its own right even without a view.
It’s also a wonderful sunset spot, as you can see from the photos we had too much cloud for sunset, but it would be really special if you luck out with good conditions.
Getting to Wilkies Pools
The quickest walk to the pools begins at the Dawson Falls visitor centre which is located inside the Egmont National Park, roughly 55km and a 50 minute drive from New Plymouth.
Once you enter the national park, the road becomes very narrow and windy, so you’ll definitely want to take it slow, there is very little room for passing other cars.
Once you get to the visitor centre, facilities-wise there are toilets and picnic benches.
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