Nizwa makes it onto just about every visitor’s Oman itinerary and it’s easy to see why. The city itself is charming, with traditional mud brick buildings, rooftop cafes and one of the country’s best forts. There’s also plenty to do in the surrounding area: from visiting an abandoned village which now looks more like a movie set, to meandering the labyrinth that is Jabreen Castle, taking a dip in a spectacular wadi and sipping coffee amongst the date plantations in the delightful mountain village of Misfat al Abriyeen.
If you’re in the area very early on Friday morning you can also join the locals at the much loved goat market.
Here’s how to spend a few very memorable days in the beautiful city of Nizwa (no 4WD required).
The perfect three day Nizwa itinerary (no 4WD required)
Day one: Wadi Qurai and Nizwa
AM - Wadi Qurai
Assuming like the majority of people you’re going to be visiting Nizwa from Muscat, then there is a great spot you can stop on route. Wadi Qurai is spectacular and as yet off the main tourist trail, likely leaving you this incredible place all to yourself.
With towering canyon walls and crystal clear emerald pools, it’s hard to believe that it’s not more well known. But I guess in a country full of amazing wadis, many like Wadi Qurai still go relatively unnoticed. Swimming under the shadow of the sheer golden cliffs is a simply magical experience.
The 2.4km return walk to reach the main pools is gorgeous, but does involve some boulder scrambling and a couple of slippery sections, so read our detailed guide to see if it’s right for you.
Wadi Qurai is just under an hour’s drive from Muscat and 45 minutes from Nizwa, if you’re travelling between the two it’s less than a 15 minute detour. A 4WD is not required and you can explore the wadi in just a couple of hours leaving plenty of time to explore Nizwa in the afternoon.
PM - Nizwa Fort
After grabbing a coffee at one of Nizwa’s many rooftop cafes (try Athar Cafe for a very special view of the fort) it’s time to explore the city’s most popular attractions.
Nizwa Fort is incredibly picturesque, especially in the late afternoon when the walls are bathed in golden light. Unlike many historical buildings in other countries, you’re free to roam wherever you like within the fort and castle, hopping from terrace to terrace making the most of the sensational panoramic views.
The complex consists of a fort and castle, though the whole thing is generally referred to simply as Nizwa Fort.
The castle was originally built in the 9th century for the Iman and his guests and though you can wander inside its many rooms, the highlight for most people are the outdoor areas. If you time your visit right you can even watch sunset from the rooftop.
We found that the fort was less busy in the afternoons than the mornings, though you do have a third option if you fancy something a little unique and that’s to go at night.
However, if you want to do this I’d recommend heading in a little before sunset so you can see it in the light as well as the dark.
The fort is open daily from 8am to 8pm, though it closes for two hours between 11.30am and 1.30pm on Fridays. At time of writing the entry fee is 5 OMR (approx USD $13) for adults and 3 OMR (approx USD $7.80) for children. Parking close to the fort can be challenging, so it’s best to leave your car at your accommodation if you can.
Night time - Nizwa souk
Nizwa souk is the most popular tourist attraction in Nizwa after the fort, yet it still retains an authentic feel. After dark is the perfect time to visit when you can explore the market without the harsh sun beating down on you (it’s open until 10pm daily).
There’s an eclectic mix of goods from swords and suits of armour (yes really!) to clothes, jewellery and all of your usual tourist trinkets. You can also find food and drink, including delicious fresh fruit juices.
We recommend starting in the outdoor area, as this is the place to buy souvenirs such as oil lamps, hand made pottery and other traditional momentos.
The indoor area was the place to head for food and drink, including local sweets such as Halwa. This is also the part of the souk that was more tailored towards locals as it sells produce, homewares and antiques.
Where to stay in Nizwa
We visited Nizwa a couple of times staying in both a traditional and more modern hotel. I much preferred the heritage hotel with traditional touches and old world charm.
We stayed in the Nizwa Heritage Inn which was simple but comfortable. I loved the mud brick exterior, painted ceiling and authentic pots in the little alcoves. There was AC but surprisingly given we visited on a scorching day in October, we didn’t actually need it. The room stayed surprisingly cool.
The bathroom was a typical wet room, but it was big so though the floor got flooded in one part, there were still dry areas (wet rooms are generally a pet hate of mine!). No food is offered at this hotel so it doesn’t have that same level of hospitality that you’ll find at other inns in smaller villages, but there are plenty of eateries in Nizwa.
It’s located a few minutes walk from the fort and has a free car park.
You can check out the reviews and prices on:
If you’d like a slightly more upmarket traditional hotel with pool, then the Antique Inn is another popular choice.
Day two - Misfat al Abriyeen, Al Hamra abandoned village, Bahla Fort
AM - Misfat al Abriyeen, journey time from Nizwa: 50 minutes
The small village of Misfat al Abriyeen is like something you’d read about in a novel, with traditional adobe houses, some of which are perfectly intact and still in use, whilst some are crumbling and a little worse for wear. All are incredibly atmospheric.
The village itself is nestled into the mountainside, teeming with date palms, so you can explore to the sound of trickling water from the ubiquitous falaj, an ancient irrigation system.
We’d recommend starting your day with a relaxing coffee at one of the gorgeous rooftop cafes. Our favourite was Rogan Cafe, the coffee, crepes and hibiscus juice were all good and the view overlooking the date palm oasis was so serene.
Next up it’s time to explore the village - though you could simply wander around the myriad of picturesque streets, if you want to make sure you see all the best bits head for The Garden and Wadi Walk (W9 with W9c).
Though you can complete the full circuit, the most beautiful part of the walk is the first 650m, so that would be a 1.3km return walk.
This will take you through some back streets, along the falaj, past the gorgeous Misfah Old House (you can pop inside for a small fee) and into the wadi. You can read all the details in our Misfat al Abriyeen guide.
Misfat is also a possible alternate place to base yourself for exploring the area around Nizwa, if you prefer quiet villages to cities then it is likely to be a better bet for you.
We stayed at Bait Baityn hotel, it’s still a traditional adobe house, but much less expensive than the more well known Misfah Old House.
The rooms at Bait Baityn are simple but with nice touches like pottery and lanterns. The mattresses were also soft which was a surprise for Oman! Bathrooms are the standard wet rooms but dried quickly.
PM stop one - Al Hamra abandoned village, journey time from Misfat al Abriyeen: 10 minutes
There is both a new and an old village of Al Hamra. And though we have nothing against the new village, it’s the old one we think you should visit.
Entering the abandoned village of Al Hamra is like walking into a post apocalyptic world, either that or a disaster movie set.
The village has been left to slowly crumble away and the ramshackle buildings still contain some of the villagers former possessions. The remains of houses are littered with old shoes, books, bottles and even strings of garlic, all of which are covered in a thick layer of dust.
Whilst there is nothing to stop you going anywhere you want to, we don’t recommend climbing any of the old staircases, or venturing into the depths of the buildings as none of the site will be structurally sound.
Fair warning that there is also quite a bit of litter around, but it’s still a fascinating place to visit. Look up at the ceilings and you might see some of the old artworks still in tact.
Parking to explore the village can be found at these coordinates: 23.120841, 57.283655, it’s just a lay-by as there is no car park for the site.
PM stop two - Bahla Fort, journey time from Al Hamra: 30 minutes and back to Nizwa: 30 minutes
The final stop of the day is the UNESCO World Heritage listed Bahla Fort. From the outside, it is the archetypal middle eastern fort, with mud brick walls, small windows and conical towers.
Unlike Jabreen Castle, there isn’t much to see inside the building and there’s almost no information as you walk around the site. However, the sheer size and scale of it, as well as the views across the nearby oasis and surrounding hills makes it well worth the visit.
The fort was used between the 12th and 15th centuries, and whilst the outer walls and many of the inner buildings have been restored, a lot of the site would be counted as ruins.
Bahla Fort is open every day from 9am to 7pm. Tickets at the time of writing are 4 OMR ($10.40 USD) for adults and 2 OMR ($5.20 USD) for children between 6 and 12. Children younger than 6 go free.
Day three - Wadi Damm Pools and Jabreen Castle,
AM - Wadi Damm Pools - journey time from Nizwa: 1.5 hours each way
Day three takes in more of Oman’s spectacular natural wonders, as well as my personal favourite historical site in the area.
Given this is an action packed itinerary you can make a really leisurely start for the Wadi Damm Pools because Jabreen Castle is open late, and it’s actually an evening visit we’d recommend for something a little different.
Wadi Damm is a real beauty and though it does attract many visitors, most tend to congregate around the first pool (which ironically is not the most spectacular one). Finding the best pools is not overly straightforward and does require a little agility in a few spots.
Reaching the first couple of pools is pretty easy though, so no matter what you’re feeling up to when you visit, making the trip out to the canyon will be worth it. In fact, even if you don’t fancy a swim, the canyon is stunning and makes for a great walk.
If you want to go to the hidden pools, which are both gorgeous and quiet, then the walk is 2.5km return and includes one section where you have to climb up through a small boulder cave with the aid of a rope (or if you’re like me, the aid of a rope and a leg up!).
But as mentioned, you don’t have to go through this bit to reach some lovely swimming spots.
If you do have a 4WD, then you can park closer to the pools than the 2.5km return walk we mention. All the details for what to expect, where to park and how to find the pools are in this guide.
PM - Jabreen Castle - journey time from Wadi Damm Pools: 1 hour and then back to Nizwa: 30 minutes
The final stop on this itinerary is the incredible Jabreen Castle, built in 1670 when the capital was moved from Nizwa to Jabreen. The moment you step through the doorway the smell of frankincense fills the air and it only gets more atmospheric as you wander the labyrinth of rooms and walkways.
I visited Jabreen Castle during the day because I didn’t realise it was open at night and though I loved my visit, after chatting to a member of staff I wished I’d been able to go at night.
She said it was the most special time to visit and also the least busy (not that it was particularly busy when I visited during the day). I can only imagine what it would be like to explore the low lit passageways after nightfall.
For me Jabreen Castle was the most atmospheric of all the historical sites we visited, with stunning views and traditional decor. Again nothing was off limits, if there’s a sudden drop or hole, you won’t find it barred off and that’s what helps it retain its authentic feel.
There’s a lot to see; from jail cells, to tombs, the library, bedrooms and date storage rooms (which come complete with their own resident bat colony!).
Whilst there is some seating around, it’s worth noting there is no AC in the building, so if you’re visiting on a very hot day you will feel it - though you’re mostly inside so won’t be in the direct sunlight.
An audio guide is included in the cost of a ticket, or you can simply explore and make up your own stories! There are some soft furnishings left in the castle, but also some empty rooms and though you will find some signage, it’s minimal, so if you want to learn more of the castle’s history then definitely take the audio guide.
Current prices are 3 OMR (approx USD $7.80) for adult tourists, 1 OMR for children (approx USD $2.60) unless they are under six years old in which case they go free. At time of writing opening hours are 7.30am – 21.00pm everyday.
Essential information for visiting Nizwa
Driving between Muscat and Nizwa
Once you get out of Muscat driving around Oman is generally easy and relatively quiet. You will encounter some traffic in Nizwa, but it’s not too bad. The road between Nizwa and Muscat is fully sealed and does not require a 4WD. No part of this itinerary requires a 4WD, though you can park a little closer to Wadi Damm Pools if you have one.
You can read more tips for driving in Oman here.
Best time to visit Nizwa
The best time to visit Nizwa is generally in the cooler months of December to February. We visited in October and again in November, which was very hot, but still manageable. If you’re visiting in the hottest months of the year you will likely want to explore in the early morning and late afternoon and take a break during the hottest part of the day.
Things are open on Fridays!
Before visiting we read online that almost everything in Nizwa shuts on a Friday, but that is not the case. Certain places may close for a few hours for prayers during the day but will then reopen, this includes Nizwa Fort.
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